Feudo di Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2004

Dinner at friends' house - they made a very nice pizza; I was going to bring a Chianti but opted for this instead when I saw it at the shop:

Feudo di Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2004 - Italy, Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (10/27/2008) 12,59€; plastic "cork"; 13% abv; Nero d'Avola & Frappato.

Despite the plastic closure, this is very vibrant. It started out with some rather wild, funky and volatile aromas coupled with a beautiful red berry scent that was both bright, refreshing and ripe. Sadly the funky scents blew away, but gladly the beautiful red berry scents remained and it gained some plummy character: it morphed from a Musar-lookalike into something much more mainstream but still very interesting. No oak that I can sense. More medium- than full-bodied for a Southern wine, ripe but not overdone in any way, refreshingly tannic, quite lively acidity. If this is how lovely Nero d'Avola based wines can be when they aren't whacked with oak, why are so many made in such a massively oaky style?

Aglianico del Vulture, Alsace and Baden Pinot, Cava

Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture Il Bali 2004 - Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture (10/25/2008) 9,95€; 13% abv; 6,1 g/l acidity; 12months in French oak and partly in Slavonian

This has a dusty nose with tart red berries (lingonberry/cranberry), not at all as much oak as I would have guessed from the technical sheet (I guess the oak is mostly used?). Robust, tarry, tannic palate, lovely refreshing acidity, no new oak that I can see, but rather it is very lively and refreshing and structured. Tangy aftertaste. Very good value at under 10€. Buy again? Certainly.

Domaine Joseph Scharsch Pinot Noir 2007 - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC (10/25/2008) 12,5% abv; 11,95€; plastic "cork"

A very light red, perhaps more rosé. The scent is obviously Pinot with its vegetal and bright red aromas and slight earthiness. Elegant, red-berried fruit, good structure - a very enjoyable wine. Drink slightly cooled - I don't know if this is a light red wine or a deep rosé, but it is a beautiful wine, well balanced and very moreish. Very nice.

Vilarnau Cava Brut N.V. - Spain, Catalunya, Cava (10/25/2008) 8,22€; 11,5% abv; 8g/l sugar; 5,5g/l acidity; apparently produced by González Byass though I don't see mention of that on the bottle.

This started out with strong, yeasty, autolytic aromas, but calmed to a very attractive scent of clover, citrus and even some minerality and almost Chardonnay-like appley fruit. Moderately elegant mousse. Perhaps a bit high in dosage but still crisp (so I won't complain about it in such a cheap wine), full flavoured and not as boring and neutral as cheap Cava often is. Long, mineral aftertaste. Hugely impressive for the price.

Winzergenossenschaft Königschaffhausen Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Spätburgunder Trocken 2006 - Germany, Baden (10/24/2008) 16,38€; 13% abv

Light red. A fruit forward nose with lots of sweet cherry/strawberry - it is a pure scent, but rather one-dimensional. Low acid, warm year character, abundant and buxom fruit. It again is true to the grape but one-dimensional. Due to the low acidity, the aftertaste is rather clipped. Decent, but unexciting.

Nasty Cab

Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile; 15% abv ( ), 10months in French oak; 22,60€ (thankfully just a quick taste, so I didn't have to waste money on it)

Purple. Harshly alcoholic nose, so ripe and so whacked with oak that there is no sense of the grape at all - it could be from anything and I have a suspicion it is made not from Cabernet but is a varietal quercus. Huge, harshly and painfully alcoholic palate, undrinkable and tarry and I couldn't get the horrible taste out of my mouth even with several Fisherman's Friends! Nasty and painful. Avoid.

Scandinavia as an Atheist haven

http://www.salon.com/books/review/2008/10/22/zuckerman/

Pannonhalmi Apátsági Tramini 2007

Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet Tramini 2007 12,65€. Gewürztraminer; 13% abv; 5,2g/l acidity

The nose is very true to the grape with its litchi and rosewater aromas, but these aromas are in a more restrained and elegant style than seems common for the grape. It is a strongly mineral rather than an explosively fruity scent. Fully dry palate, quite forceful even, deep, grippy and even earthy palate with surprisingly noticeable acidity for the grape. Long, mineral aftertaste. The power, dryness and elegance brought Alsace of the Trimbach style to my mind! Very nice.

Torres Salmos Priorat 2006

Torres Salmos Priorat 2006 14,5% abv; 22,90€; Garnacha, Syrah, Cariñena

Purple. The nose is very ripe, with sweet red berries and darker fruit notes, much barrique-scents but gladly the toast seems moderate rather than high. The taste is extremely full-bodied and extracted, but it does have lovely structure: moderate acidity and refreshing tannins. I think that those who appreciate Priorat might find this to be a perfectly decent, moderately priced example. But I must confess that apart from a Trio Infernal I have been uniformly let down by the area, so I am not a good judge of this wine: I don't like new oak and big fruit and body.

Drouet La Sancive Muscadet 2007

Drouet Frères Muscadet Sèvre et Maine "La Sancive" 2007 8,38€; 12%abv

Lovely minerality and citrus notes with some leesy notes as well - quite a classic Muscadet! Nervous and zippy, medium bodied. Mineral aftertaste. A very pleasing drop, though not one of the top class of Muscadets

A gorgeous Morgon!

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2007 16,98€ (from Alko's special order selection, imported by Funky Wine Imports); 13% abv.

This is a very complete and harmonious wine. It has a slightly lifted nose with ripe red fruit/raspberry and some darker fruit notes, too, but nothing at all over-ripe. It is also savoury and gravelly. The palate has sweet fruit but great grip and liveliness, medium body but it feels weightless. Wonderful, long and bittersweet aftertaste. Quite wonderful!

Passable Muscadet, Martinborough Pinot, Rasteau

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie 2005 14,85€ (says something about Finnish pricing having a "cheap" Muscadet at 15€...); 12%abv.

I last tasted this in July '06 so I was very surprised to see a bottle still around. I remember that I liked it then though it wasn't a terribly zippy style. The scent now is very leesy and very powerful, but it also has lovely sea breeze aromas. Dry but full bodied for Muscadet, ripe but with enough structure for it to stay together. An enjoyable Muscadet, but in a rather richer and less mineral style than I would ideally prefer.

Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir Te Tera 2006 - Martinborough 27,50€; 13,5% abv.

This started out extremely oaky: apparently only about 30% of the wood is new, but for the first half-hour open that 30% and cranberry jam were all I could smell. But this wine developed well in glass and though still oaky later on in the evening, it did become much more balanced with some true Pinosity showing: sweet red fruit, brightness, some root vegetables. Full bodied, sweet, not terribly acidic (technical sheet says 5,5g/l) but sufficient to keep this from becoming cloying. Moderate aftertaste. I think this might be a very enjoyable wine for those who can handle more oak in their Pinot than I can, but especially at this price I felt disappointed.

M. Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau 2006 12,90€; 14% abv; 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah.

Dark. Spicy nose with ripe and sweet fruit, very true Grenache scents. Full bodied and quite soft so it is a rather fruit forward wine: despite some ripe tannins I wouldn't mind a touch more acidity since the fruit tastes almost sugary. Turns rather hot on the finish. Correct, but not hugely exciting.

Blanes, Montenidoli, Cosimo Maria Masini, Fojo, Burgaud, Podere le Boncie

(d.) de Blanes Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Muscat Sec 2007 - Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

A floral and very typical Muscat scent, but a restrained style and very mineral. Though the scent promised a sweetly fruity wine, it gladly was dry and with almost steely acidity and grip. Long and strongly mineral aftertaste. Very nice!

Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato 2004

A little bit of new oak/vanilla on the nose, but also more interesting scents: bright, citrussy fruit and some hay - when served blind, it reminded me of Basque whites from the Pyrenees. Deep and moderately full bodied palate, good acidity, but once again with a touch of oak. I don't think most people will find this amount of oak problematic, but it did diminish my appreciation. Possibly nice with more age even for me?

Cosimo Maria Masini Trebbiano 2007

A sample; I don't think it is commercially produced? A wild wine: the colour is orange and cloudy - "natural" wine! A wild and funky nose at first with lots of oxidative apple notes and funk reminiscent of Cantillon's Gueuze. I thought it was absolutely fantastic stuff, though I guess it is a bit of an extreme wine. But over the evening it developed into a more mainstream style, with the funk blowing off and brighter, more fruity aromas appearing. Deep and tangy palate, tannic and acidic, more like a red wine than white - I guess this is what Gravners are like? Endlessly fascinating but much more than a curiosity: to me at least this was very, very drinkable and moreish. I love it!

Montenidoli Sono Montenidoli 2001

Blind taste: Deep colour, very primary. Ripe fruit, dark toned yet still very Sangiovese, lifted and refreshing, perhaps some oak notes too (though we were later told that it doesn't see new wood). Big, concentrated palate, yet very light on its feet: much, much ripe fruit, but much, much "natural" tannins as well. Despite its size it seems very bright and refreshing. Young, and I have slight reservations about the sheer size of it, but thanks to the very upright structure, I think I would enjoy it with quite a bit more time (this still seemed more like a barrel sample than a finished wine!).

Quinta do Fojo Douro Fojo 2000 - Portugal, Douro, Cima Corgo

A nice, dark toned wine, with a slightly raisiny/figgy character, but with lots of bright and refreshing herbal notes, too, so it isn't all about sweetness. Full bodied, but light on its feet, refreshing and palate-cleansing. Very nice!

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Les Charmes 2007

As classic a nose as can be: slightly reductive at first, but opened up to be very gravelly with bright, raspberry fruit. Fairly light and juicy palate, but with wonderful structure and purity; clean, rocky and long; firm but friendly. Very nice!

Podere le Boncie Chianti Classico Le Trame 2005

This was the only, slightly disappointing wine of tonight's tasting! Le Trame was sublime in 2002 (yes, that's right, it was sublime in a year that no one says anything good about) and 2004 so I had high hopes for this, but when it was served (blind of course) it smelled very ripe and international - not overly oaky, but simply anonymous. Juicy palate and with nice structure. There was nothing wrong with the wine except that it lacked the magic of the '02 and '04. Drinkable and well made but not exciting.

Sample of unspecified vintage of Cosimo Maria Masini Vin Santo

A nice wine, rather Muscatty in its aromas, some metallic scents, too. Sweet, but bright. Nice stuff, but not hugely exciting.

Nicolas Potel Auxey-Duresses VV 2007

2007 Nicolas Potel Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses

13% abv; 22,50€; 0,25ha parcel of Auxey-Duresses; 10 months in oak of which 30% was new. Immature colour, of course. Citrus and bitter oak notes and some nuttiness. Bitterly oaky palate, but at least it has high acidity and fruit to counter it. I'm not hugely excited, but perhaps if the oak calms down it might turn into something palatable.

Bucci Verdicchio '07

What was supposed to have been a casual mid-week, food friendly drop turned out to have been quite a bit more interesting. In fact it slightly reminded me of Pieropan's Calvarino Soave - which was nice! With some lightly smoked halibut:

Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2007 - Marche; 13,5% abv; 14,77€; neutral oak cask for 3-6 months

A rather lovely nose of apples, hay and non-oaky nuttiness that I sometimes also find in good Soave. With air, the fruit turned more and more towards red aromas.

Full bodied, almost rich, bright in its fruit. It has fine acidity and overall grip and the aftertaste is very long. I think this is a lovely wine even though I wouldn't mind more minerality in it.

Voirin-Jumel, Töövi, Musar, Acacia, Giroud, Baumard

Wade Hostler was once again in Finland, so we met up for some great wines. I made a pot of poulet au vin (cheap man's coq au vin) for these wines:

• 2002 Voirin-Jumel Champagne Millésimé - France, Champagne (10/4/2008)
  A sweet scent of apple or pear jam, but also nice minerality and white fruit. Elegant mousse, but a rather full bodied and heavy Champagne without quite the steely, refreshing zip I hope to see in Chardonnay-heavy Champagnes. Yet despite my criticisms, it did go down very easily. It is a good Champagne, just not what I was expecting.
• 2007 Crushpad Töövi Saralee's Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (10/4/2008)
  14% abv; stainless steel, no oak; c.½ & ½ Marsanne & Roussanne with just a dash of Viognier. At first very reductive, but it opened up to be a really wonderful white Rhône blend with nutty and pear-like fruit and very strong minerality. Full bodied but very light on its feet with abnormally high acidity for a Rhône white blend (but this was only a good thing as I too often find them flabby). It is a bit tannic also so I wondered if it might have been pressed with stems - apparently not, but it does have great structure to counter the fruit. Asko's best wine so far, IMO! Great stuff!
• 1982 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (10/4/2008)
  This bottle was very different from the magnum I had last December. This was a dark and brooding wine, not delicate at all, with an animal quality to the peachy fruit. With air it became tame and lost some of the unique Musariness and became more like an aged CdP. Vibrant, sweet fruit, refreshing acidity and quite tannic but sadly also the alcohol shows a little on the finish. A nice wine, but not one of the great Musars and strange in how it lost its Musariness after a few hours!
• 1980 Acacia Pinot Noir St. Clair Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros (10/4/2008)
  This was a treasure that Wade kindly brought from the States. 12,6% abv. Deep colour, looks very young. The scent started out with some funk but the bottle stink blew off quickly and the wine was quite fantastic. The scent was full of ripe strawberry and wet clay - a ripe but pure Pinosity, fully mature but so vibrant that it seemed nowhere close to being at the end of its life. Quite full bodied for such an old wine, intense, fairly high acidity which countered the sweet fruit, still some tannins. Refreshing aftertaste. This bottle was a very charming wine.
• 1988 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (10/4/2008)
  13% abv; 75€. Quite a dark colour for a 20yo Burgundy. The nose has a lovely animal character to it - it is a rustic and rugged style of Burgundy - but it also has a pure Pinosity with vegetal and earthy, aged aromas. Still rather tannic and rugged, rustic fruit. Very upright still and though lovely now, we all thought it might still improve with time. Great stuff.
• 2004 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume (10/4/2008)
  13% abv; 44,90€. A lovely drop: scents of quince, peas and hay. Full bodied and sweet but with enough bright acidity to make it extremely moreish. Excellent.

Perusini Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

As might be obvious from the profusion of notes I have written on Perusini, I really love this producer. Everything they make seems unforced, pure and unadulterated (I even liked their Merlot!!!!), so I wonder why I don't see much talk about them on the internet. Of Perusini's range, the Cabernet Sauvignon is IMO the least interesting, but is still a good wine:



Perusini ronchi di Gramogliano Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 13% abv

A dark colour. Upon opening, this had a piercing scent of mint but with air it calmed down. It morphed into something so purely and quintessentially Cabernet Sauvignon-like that I have to use the age old clichés: it smells of blackcurrant leaves and graphite. Some earthy and leafy aromas appear with more air and the predominant "colour" of the fruit goes from the darker part of the spectrum more towards the red. It is very ripe, but refreshingly herbaceous, juicily tannic but only moderate in acidity (the warm year is slightly noticable). I think it is showing well now, but it has the structure and balance that it should age for some years still - I don't think (but I'm willing to be proven wrong) that this isn't meant for the ages.

What about the oak? If I understood their web-site (my Italian is non-existent) this sees up to 9 months in barrique. I assume the barriques must be used because I don't perceive oak (which is nice as I find even slight amounts prohibit my enjoyment of whatever else the wine may have).

This seems to me a very successful and varietally true Cabernet Sauvignon. But Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are IMO not great grapes; but a blend of them can be: 1+1=3. Come to think of it, other than Cabernet Franc and Sémillon, I don't seem to enjoy the traditional Bordeaux grapes as varietal wines. How odd.

Ca' del Baio Dolcetto d'Albal Lodoli 2007

Ca' del Baio (Giulio Grasso) Dolcetto d'Alba Lodoli 2007 12,98€; 13% abv.

A bit reductive on opening, but cleared up to be a very charming Dolcetto: ripe fruit, some bitter herbal notes, cherry and damp earth. Despite not seeing oak, I did get an occasion whiff of vanilla/toffee - I wonder what that was? - but it is a bright and savoury and ripe scent. Juicy fruit, deliciously upright and refreshing tannins, slightly more acidic that I expected from the grape, which was nice (what I have previously had of Dolcetto has been fairly low in acidity). Palate-cleansing aftertaste. I find it very enjoyable, but it does need some fatty food to counter the tannins.