Donnafugata Nero d'Avola Sedàra 2007 c.12€; 13,5% abv
I was a bit apprehensive as I have seen some reports mentioning oak with this wine. Yet it seemed to have bright red aromas mixed with the darker fruit - even though there is no Frappato mixed in! It had good structure from both tannins and acidity, it wasn't gobby or over-ripe, but rather quite moreish. Not hugely exciting, but pleasant.
But it didn't seem like it sees new oak. Does anyone know for sure? Our monopoly does mention it sees 30% oak; but Donnafugata's website only mentions concrete. I suppose since I didn't find it offensive, I shouldn't worry about what sort of oak it sees, but the geek in me wants to know!
maanantai 30. maaliskuuta 2009
keskiviikko 25. maaliskuuta 2009
Massolino 1974-2007
Franco Massolino was visiting the Finnish importer, so we had a tasting of his wines. This was a property that I hadn't tasted before, but I absolutely adored most of these wines. Apart from the Chardonnay, Barbera Gisep and the Barolo Parafada the wines were utterly classical in style without any new or small oak that I could sense.

Franco at our tasting
We started with the Langhe Chardonnay 2007 which weighed in at a hefty 14,5% abv, but the huge alcohol was fairly well hidden. It had some oaky nuttiness - but not an overoaked style. Citric, bright palate, no malo, refreshing despite its size. Decent stuff. But I have to admit I am finding it more and more difficult to get enjoyment out of Chardonnay (unless it has bubbles or is strange, funky stuff from the Jura).

Next we had the Dolcetto d'Alba 2007 which was pure, bright, fun fruit mixed with some savoury scents. Good tannins, charming fruit. I rather enjoy Dolcetto as a grape, but as I adore acidity, I did find the Barbera d'Alba 2007 even more to my taste. Once again, it is unashamedly fun and fruity, with those absolutely delightful herbaceous scents I so love in the grape; it was very ripe and fruity but had juicy acidity. Fun stuff. As friendly as a puppy greeting its owner.
The more "serious" Barbera d'Alba Gisep 2006 sees 18 monthis in barrique with IIRC about a third new. Considering how oakophobic I am, I must admit that the oak was surprisingly well integrated (but still too much for me). But as far as these oaky Super-Barberas go, this was certainly amongst the more drinkable examples. The palate didn't show the strong oak influence as much: it was vibrant, deliciously acidic (oh, my goodness, how I love the acidities of these wines: not harsh in any way, but such that they make me drool!) and showed ripe, healthy fruit. I think many people will find this a very lovable Barbera.
The Langhe Nebbiolo 2005 was more to my taste. Once again, this had no new oak, so it showed an unadulterated, pure Nebbiolo character: bright fruit, some darker tones/tar. It was perhaps a bit soft for a young Nebbiolo, but it was very attractive and was fun to drink now.

After these "minor" wines which really do not deserve that sobriquet, we had the Barolos. We started with two "normale", the Barolo Classico 2003 and 2004. Like most that I have tried of the vintage, the 2003 was a little bit weird, and not really to my taste - though it was perfectly drinkable, I wouldn't go out and buy one. Over-ripe fruit, somewhat harsh and drying tannins as if the phenolic ripeness lagged behind the sugars. The 2004 was just lovely, however. Beautifully floral and bright red aromatics; harmonious and classically proportioned palate. Though obviously young, it brought me enormous pleasure.
The Barolo Parafada 2004 was one that I had slight reservations about. It sees some new barrique and I find that barrique and Nebbiolo clash horribly, so even a slight amount destroys the beautiful purity of the aromatics that I so love in this grape. Gladly this is the only one of their Barolos that does see some Barrique (and from 2007 onward, this will be only botti also!). It was soft, fruity, easy, and just didn't have the brightness or purity and grip that I seek. But it certainly wasn't offensively oaky as some modern styled Barolos are, so I understand that it has its fans.
I found the Barolo Margheria 2004 much more to my taste. In fact, I think this wine rocked! It was full of bright, refreshing aromatics, yet it also had a sweeter, strawberry edge to the fruit. Bright and clean, palate-cleansingly tannic, charming and in no way overwhelming acidity, pure. I loved it!
Finally we had a flight of the flagship Barolo, the Vigna Rionda and a lone old '74. The Barolo Vigna Rionda 2001 was awesome! It had power and purity, all the classic aromas I hope to find in Barolo; great structure, palate-cleansing, and very moreish despite being tight and young. Though it isn't a great time to be drinking it, I thought this might have been the greatest of the wines tonight. The Vigna Rionda 1999 X Anni was sweeter, more voluptuously fruity (if Barolo ever can really be called fruity, lol!), but with good structure. The aromatics were sublime, but I would have hoped for a less sweet palate. It is a great wine, though, despite my tiny criticism.
The Vigna Rionda 1995 was the wine that tonight combined class and drinkability. It might not be as great a wine as the '01 or '99 will be, but it was more mature. It had some aromas of dried fruit, but otherwise was as classic Barolo as one can hope for with all the stereotypical scents of tar and rose petals. Good structure, no hurry to drink this, but it is approachable and friendly. Very nice!
Sadly the older wines weren't showing too well. The Vigna Rionda 1988 smelled rather strongly of sulfur and rye bread. The palate, however, was rather lovely with soft, aged fruit: it was a calm wine whereas the younger wines were all about energy. The Barolo 1974 was brown and sadly dead. It tasted like cold tea. I'm not sure these were well stored bottles.
For dessert we had the Moscato d'Asti 2007 which was great fun! It smelled of grass and grapes; fizzy, 120g/l RS but still bright and refreshing and fun.
I really enjoyed meeting Franco and had a great time listening to his expert commentary and tasting his excellent wines.

Franco at our tasting
We started with the Langhe Chardonnay 2007 which weighed in at a hefty 14,5% abv, but the huge alcohol was fairly well hidden. It had some oaky nuttiness - but not an overoaked style. Citric, bright palate, no malo, refreshing despite its size. Decent stuff. But I have to admit I am finding it more and more difficult to get enjoyment out of Chardonnay (unless it has bubbles or is strange, funky stuff from the Jura).

Next we had the Dolcetto d'Alba 2007 which was pure, bright, fun fruit mixed with some savoury scents. Good tannins, charming fruit. I rather enjoy Dolcetto as a grape, but as I adore acidity, I did find the Barbera d'Alba 2007 even more to my taste. Once again, it is unashamedly fun and fruity, with those absolutely delightful herbaceous scents I so love in the grape; it was very ripe and fruity but had juicy acidity. Fun stuff. As friendly as a puppy greeting its owner.
The more "serious" Barbera d'Alba Gisep 2006 sees 18 monthis in barrique with IIRC about a third new. Considering how oakophobic I am, I must admit that the oak was surprisingly well integrated (but still too much for me). But as far as these oaky Super-Barberas go, this was certainly amongst the more drinkable examples. The palate didn't show the strong oak influence as much: it was vibrant, deliciously acidic (oh, my goodness, how I love the acidities of these wines: not harsh in any way, but such that they make me drool!) and showed ripe, healthy fruit. I think many people will find this a very lovable Barbera.
The Langhe Nebbiolo 2005 was more to my taste. Once again, this had no new oak, so it showed an unadulterated, pure Nebbiolo character: bright fruit, some darker tones/tar. It was perhaps a bit soft for a young Nebbiolo, but it was very attractive and was fun to drink now.

After these "minor" wines which really do not deserve that sobriquet, we had the Barolos. We started with two "normale", the Barolo Classico 2003 and 2004. Like most that I have tried of the vintage, the 2003 was a little bit weird, and not really to my taste - though it was perfectly drinkable, I wouldn't go out and buy one. Over-ripe fruit, somewhat harsh and drying tannins as if the phenolic ripeness lagged behind the sugars. The 2004 was just lovely, however. Beautifully floral and bright red aromatics; harmonious and classically proportioned palate. Though obviously young, it brought me enormous pleasure.
The Barolo Parafada 2004 was one that I had slight reservations about. It sees some new barrique and I find that barrique and Nebbiolo clash horribly, so even a slight amount destroys the beautiful purity of the aromatics that I so love in this grape. Gladly this is the only one of their Barolos that does see some Barrique (and from 2007 onward, this will be only botti also!). It was soft, fruity, easy, and just didn't have the brightness or purity and grip that I seek. But it certainly wasn't offensively oaky as some modern styled Barolos are, so I understand that it has its fans.
I found the Barolo Margheria 2004 much more to my taste. In fact, I think this wine rocked! It was full of bright, refreshing aromatics, yet it also had a sweeter, strawberry edge to the fruit. Bright and clean, palate-cleansingly tannic, charming and in no way overwhelming acidity, pure. I loved it!
Finally we had a flight of the flagship Barolo, the Vigna Rionda and a lone old '74. The Barolo Vigna Rionda 2001 was awesome! It had power and purity, all the classic aromas I hope to find in Barolo; great structure, palate-cleansing, and very moreish despite being tight and young. Though it isn't a great time to be drinking it, I thought this might have been the greatest of the wines tonight. The Vigna Rionda 1999 X Anni was sweeter, more voluptuously fruity (if Barolo ever can really be called fruity, lol!), but with good structure. The aromatics were sublime, but I would have hoped for a less sweet palate. It is a great wine, though, despite my tiny criticism.
The Vigna Rionda 1995 was the wine that tonight combined class and drinkability. It might not be as great a wine as the '01 or '99 will be, but it was more mature. It had some aromas of dried fruit, but otherwise was as classic Barolo as one can hope for with all the stereotypical scents of tar and rose petals. Good structure, no hurry to drink this, but it is approachable and friendly. Very nice!
Sadly the older wines weren't showing too well. The Vigna Rionda 1988 smelled rather strongly of sulfur and rye bread. The palate, however, was rather lovely with soft, aged fruit: it was a calm wine whereas the younger wines were all about energy. The Barolo 1974 was brown and sadly dead. It tasted like cold tea. I'm not sure these were well stored bottles.
For dessert we had the Moscato d'Asti 2007 which was great fun! It smelled of grass and grapes; fizzy, 120g/l RS but still bright and refreshing and fun.
I really enjoyed meeting Franco and had a great time listening to his expert commentary and tasting his excellent wines.
maanantai 23. maaliskuuta 2009
Clape Côtes du Rhône 2006
Clape Côtes du Rhône 2006 13% abv; 26,70€
This is made from a combination of young vine, declassified Cornas and Syrah from a vineyard just outside of the Cornas appellation.
It is a delightful wine! It smells of olives and meat; ripe, dark fruit despite some leafiness, sometimes I think I smell the tiniest hint of funk (which is very welcome!). Palate-cleansingly tannic, ripe fruit, not hugely concentrated, surprisingly low in acid for what is otherwise so classic and pure Syrah. It is very drinkable now despite the strong tannins. Refreshing and quite delightful. I might be wrong, but it just doesn't seem to have the stuffing to go for more than a couple years gracefully? The only problem is the price, which does seem rather on high side.
This is made from a combination of young vine, declassified Cornas and Syrah from a vineyard just outside of the Cornas appellation.
It is a delightful wine! It smells of olives and meat; ripe, dark fruit despite some leafiness, sometimes I think I smell the tiniest hint of funk (which is very welcome!). Palate-cleansingly tannic, ripe fruit, not hugely concentrated, surprisingly low in acid for what is otherwise so classic and pure Syrah. It is very drinkable now despite the strong tannins. Refreshing and quite delightful. I might be wrong, but it just doesn't seem to have the stuffing to go for more than a couple years gracefully? The only problem is the price, which does seem rather on high side.
torstai 19. maaliskuuta 2009
Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2004
Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz Hunter Valley; 12,5% abv; 55€It is strange to see such a moderate alcohol level in an Aussie Shiraz. The style is, as expected from the lower abv, a more elegant style of Shiraz, where the emphasis is on what, as one with spoofophobic tastes, I would call balance rather than massive fruitiness.
If I could take away the overt oak aromas, I think I would find this wine awesome! The fruit seems fully ripe rather than over ripe as sadly seems to be the norm in the sample of Aussies that I have had. It has healthy tannins and a general sense of liveliness. It is a refreshing wine, one that begs me to take a bite to eat, to take another sip and to take a closer look at the wine. The other Aussies available to me reveal all their charms ... sorry, charmlessnesses ... immediately, whereas this wine makes me want to explore further. It has some finesse to it, though I do admit I find the oak a bit heavyhanded. But I am sure that time will correct that. I would love to see how this is in a decade!
Tunnisteet:
Australia,
Brokenwood,
Hunter Valley,
Shiraz
keskiviikko 18. maaliskuuta 2009
Don & Melissa Rice on the Loire and Alsace 1997 & 1998
Don and Melissa Rice have re-opened the site of their '97 and '98 visits to the Loire and Alsace. Well worth a visit: http://web.mac.com/donrice1/iWeb/loire90svin/pageone.html .
maanantai 16. maaliskuuta 2009
Predominantly St. Laurent
I was kindly invited to a tasting of Austrian reds centered on St. Laurent, but with a couple other interspersed wines of interest.
We started with a blind fizz that was only partly Austrian: R&R Rosè Brut NV ( label - 12% abv; 8g/l acidity; 2g/l sugar; 36 months ageing) which was a collaboration between Christian Reiterer from West-Steiermark and Sepp Reiterer from Südtirol in Italy. It is a blend of roughly a third each of Blauer Wildbacher and Pinots Noir and Blanc.
A deep pink, lovely bright, mineral and straberry aromas. Really crisp, acidic but with a charming fruitiness, too, so I wasn't the only one who enjoyed it tremendously.
Then we started on the reds. First up was one I didn't enjoy at all, a Juris St. Laurent Reserve 2002 ( label - from Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee). It was oaky. I couldn't really smell anything else. There was some crisp acidity and red berries but the coco powder oak was overwhelming.
The Ernst Triebaumer St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland] was quite lovely! Sweet and primary, but no new oak that I could see so the bright but ripe cherry fruit could fully express itself. Deep, well structured, refreshing wine but primary. Very nice!
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2004 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) wasn't to my taste: spicy oak and toffee. The palate was better with its bright, tart red berry flavours, but the oak was still dominant.
Weninger Blaufränkisch Ried Hochäcker Tinavera 1997 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) was fantastic. It seemed fully mature and, as it was served blind, my notes simply read: "pure Pinosity". Lovely, sweet fruit, nice acidity and brightness, sexy Pinosity. Drinking beautifully now.
Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Haidegrund St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Kamptal) must count as one of the most offensively oaky wines I have ever had the misfortune to sniff. I love Gobelsburg's whites, but this was nasty: the combination of raw wood and hot chocolate powder coupled with tart red berries made me wretch.
Stadlmann St. Laurent 2005 ( label - Traiskirchen, Thermenregion) was a nice, plump, ripe wine with dark cherry scents. 8g/l RS, ripe fruit, but bright - comparisons were made with Grenache since this was so "Southern" in feel. A nice wine!
Paul Achs St. Laurent 2006 ( label - Gols, Neusiedlersee) was quite nice with some brambly and berry scents - but also a lactic, yoghurt aroma. Sweet and bright but weirdly lactic. I still kind of liked it.
Juris Pinot Noir Reserve 2001 ( label - Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee) was awesome! This was served blind, and my first reaction was 1993 Burgundy: I had a flashback to the brilliant bottle of Jadot Ursules '93. It is bright, tight, acidic yet full of Pinosity. Needs time, but I loved it now as well.
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2006 (Hortischon, Mittelburgenland) was better IMO than the 2002 that we started with. Though still a bit oaky, the oak wasn't at all as offensive - maybe because the fruit was riper? But it still wasn't a style I really enjoyed with its oak mixed up with a cranberry tartness; but I did like the bright berry aromas.
Umathum St. Laurent 2007 ( label - Frauenkirchen, Neusiedlersee) was tight. I think this might turn out well in a few years. It had impeccable balance and raciness, but the aromas were tight.
Rosi Schuster St. Laurent 2007 (St. Margarethen, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland) was also closed but showed ripe fruit, cherry, lovely brightness and bright acidity. Very nice, but closed.
I really enjoyed the wines that didn't show oak - I am not sure the nature of the grape handles oak aromas at all well. They were bright and high in acid, great food wines and very moreish. It is a shame that some are spoiling such wonderful little treasures with a lumberjack philosophy.
We started with a blind fizz that was only partly Austrian: R&R Rosè Brut NV ( label - 12% abv; 8g/l acidity; 2g/l sugar; 36 months ageing) which was a collaboration between Christian Reiterer from West-Steiermark and Sepp Reiterer from Südtirol in Italy. It is a blend of roughly a third each of Blauer Wildbacher and Pinots Noir and Blanc.
A deep pink, lovely bright, mineral and straberry aromas. Really crisp, acidic but with a charming fruitiness, too, so I wasn't the only one who enjoyed it tremendously.
Then we started on the reds. First up was one I didn't enjoy at all, a Juris St. Laurent Reserve 2002 ( label - from Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee). It was oaky. I couldn't really smell anything else. There was some crisp acidity and red berries but the coco powder oak was overwhelming.
The Ernst Triebaumer St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland] was quite lovely! Sweet and primary, but no new oak that I could see so the bright but ripe cherry fruit could fully express itself. Deep, well structured, refreshing wine but primary. Very nice!
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2004 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) wasn't to my taste: spicy oak and toffee. The palate was better with its bright, tart red berry flavours, but the oak was still dominant.
Weninger Blaufränkisch Ried Hochäcker Tinavera 1997 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) was fantastic. It seemed fully mature and, as it was served blind, my notes simply read: "pure Pinosity". Lovely, sweet fruit, nice acidity and brightness, sexy Pinosity. Drinking beautifully now.
Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Haidegrund St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Kamptal) must count as one of the most offensively oaky wines I have ever had the misfortune to sniff. I love Gobelsburg's whites, but this was nasty: the combination of raw wood and hot chocolate powder coupled with tart red berries made me wretch.
Stadlmann St. Laurent 2005 ( label - Traiskirchen, Thermenregion) was a nice, plump, ripe wine with dark cherry scents. 8g/l RS, ripe fruit, but bright - comparisons were made with Grenache since this was so "Southern" in feel. A nice wine!
Paul Achs St. Laurent 2006 ( label - Gols, Neusiedlersee) was quite nice with some brambly and berry scents - but also a lactic, yoghurt aroma. Sweet and bright but weirdly lactic. I still kind of liked it.
Juris Pinot Noir Reserve 2001 ( label - Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee) was awesome! This was served blind, and my first reaction was 1993 Burgundy: I had a flashback to the brilliant bottle of Jadot Ursules '93. It is bright, tight, acidic yet full of Pinosity. Needs time, but I loved it now as well.
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2006 (Hortischon, Mittelburgenland) was better IMO than the 2002 that we started with. Though still a bit oaky, the oak wasn't at all as offensive - maybe because the fruit was riper? But it still wasn't a style I really enjoyed with its oak mixed up with a cranberry tartness; but I did like the bright berry aromas.
Umathum St. Laurent 2007 ( label - Frauenkirchen, Neusiedlersee) was tight. I think this might turn out well in a few years. It had impeccable balance and raciness, but the aromas were tight.
Rosi Schuster St. Laurent 2007 (St. Margarethen, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland) was also closed but showed ripe fruit, cherry, lovely brightness and bright acidity. Very nice, but closed.
I really enjoyed the wines that didn't show oak - I am not sure the nature of the grape handles oak aromas at all well. They were bright and high in acid, great food wines and very moreish. It is a shame that some are spoiling such wonderful little treasures with a lumberjack philosophy.
Tunnisteet:
Austria,
Burgenland,
Kamptal,
Neusiedlersee,
St. Laurent,
Thermenregion
tiistai 10. maaliskuuta 2009
Hunter Valley, Margaret Valley, Beaujolais, Kras, Côtes du Rhône
Tulloch Sémillon Julia Limited Release 2004 Hunter Valley
11% abv; 23,10€. About a year since my last taste, and I still love it. It has the strong minerality that reminds me of Muscadet, but also a pungent green fruit, citrus and slightly spicy scent I so love in unoaked Semillon. Medium body, lovely acidity but certainly not the tart, sharp, painful acidity I read that young Hunter Valley Semillon should have. But it is steely and should improve though I did love it now, also!
Cape Mentelle Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Margaret Valley; 13% abv; 23,30€; totally screwed up... which is nice.
The back label states that this should have been drunk within two years of harvest. Soon three, but it's still going strong. The back label also says that this sees some oak - it must be only a small amount as it doesn't really show (and you don't know how glad I am about that!).
A very light gold; almost watery. The scent starts out with strong, grassy Sauvignon scents but with only a little time open, the Semillon, gladly, asserts itself. The result is a wine that smells more like the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had than any variant of Sauvignon. The palate is a bit round and smoother than I expected of the grapes (that must be the oak?), but it is crisp and even a bit mineral. I think this was a success, even though it doesn't have the huge personality of the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had. It shows an obvious kinship with the dry white Bordeaux that has come my way, except that I have found too many white Bordeaux heavy handed on the oak. In this wine, the oak was obviously judiciously used since I'm not complaining about it. Nice wine!
Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais Rosez! NV
13,68€; 12% abv; 3200 bottles produced.

No vintage on the label, but the importer says it is 2007. Deeper edge of salmon pink. Lovely minerality, some strawberry scents. Crisp, bright and fruity enough not to be tart. Some who have tasted this, whom I very much admire, have found this too neutral but I loved its elegance and purity and crispness (though apparently only 4,7g/l acidity, it tastes like it would have much more). I thought this was a really charming wine. It also had a very high evaporation rate. With the packaging including a lurid pink, fake cork (you will have to forgive the sergeianism) this is a tried and tested panty remover.
Čotar Terra Rossa 2000

Teran 40% – Merlot 40% – Cabernet Sauvignon 20%; 13% abv; 34,50€. Aged for 5 years in oak; only 5000 bottles produced. A very interesting scent: lifted, deliciously and mouthwateringly herbaceous like Teran/Refošk tends to be, dark fruit and also some oak (but in such proportions that only a few of us will find it bothersome). Full bodied, sweet and ripe fruit, but with plenty of grip, very lively like "natural" wines tend to be, bright. Slightly balsamic on the finish. Despite my slight reservation of a bit of oak showing, I did find the whole very pleasing.
Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Réservé 2005 Ch. Rayas; 14% abv; 44,70€.
This was awesome! I am a S. Rhone doubter, still, despite some truly great wines that have been opened in my presence. But I really loved this. It opened up very funky, angry and animal; but it calmed down to a ripe but well structured wine smelling of more conventional Grenache-based aromas. Full body, but great structure: it really is refreshing and moreish despite being both primary and southernly fruity. Very enjoyable. I wish I could afford to lay down a couple of these.
11% abv; 23,10€. About a year since my last taste, and I still love it. It has the strong minerality that reminds me of Muscadet, but also a pungent green fruit, citrus and slightly spicy scent I so love in unoaked Semillon. Medium body, lovely acidity but certainly not the tart, sharp, painful acidity I read that young Hunter Valley Semillon should have. But it is steely and should improve though I did love it now, also!
Cape Mentelle Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Margaret Valley; 13% abv; 23,30€; totally screwed up... which is nice.
The back label states that this should have been drunk within two years of harvest. Soon three, but it's still going strong. The back label also says that this sees some oak - it must be only a small amount as it doesn't really show (and you don't know how glad I am about that!).
A very light gold; almost watery. The scent starts out with strong, grassy Sauvignon scents but with only a little time open, the Semillon, gladly, asserts itself. The result is a wine that smells more like the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had than any variant of Sauvignon. The palate is a bit round and smoother than I expected of the grapes (that must be the oak?), but it is crisp and even a bit mineral. I think this was a success, even though it doesn't have the huge personality of the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had. It shows an obvious kinship with the dry white Bordeaux that has come my way, except that I have found too many white Bordeaux heavy handed on the oak. In this wine, the oak was obviously judiciously used since I'm not complaining about it. Nice wine!
Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais Rosez! NV
13,68€; 12% abv; 3200 bottles produced.

No vintage on the label, but the importer says it is 2007. Deeper edge of salmon pink. Lovely minerality, some strawberry scents. Crisp, bright and fruity enough not to be tart. Some who have tasted this, whom I very much admire, have found this too neutral but I loved its elegance and purity and crispness (though apparently only 4,7g/l acidity, it tastes like it would have much more). I thought this was a really charming wine. It also had a very high evaporation rate. With the packaging including a lurid pink, fake cork (you will have to forgive the sergeianism) this is a tried and tested panty remover.
Čotar Terra Rossa 2000

Teran 40% – Merlot 40% – Cabernet Sauvignon 20%; 13% abv; 34,50€. Aged for 5 years in oak; only 5000 bottles produced. A very interesting scent: lifted, deliciously and mouthwateringly herbaceous like Teran/Refošk tends to be, dark fruit and also some oak (but in such proportions that only a few of us will find it bothersome). Full bodied, sweet and ripe fruit, but with plenty of grip, very lively like "natural" wines tend to be, bright. Slightly balsamic on the finish. Despite my slight reservation of a bit of oak showing, I did find the whole very pleasing.
Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Réservé 2005 Ch. Rayas; 14% abv; 44,70€.
This was awesome! I am a S. Rhone doubter, still, despite some truly great wines that have been opened in my presence. But I really loved this. It opened up very funky, angry and animal; but it calmed down to a ripe but well structured wine smelling of more conventional Grenache-based aromas. Full body, but great structure: it really is refreshing and moreish despite being both primary and southernly fruity. Very enjoyable. I wish I could afford to lay down a couple of these.
Tunnisteet:
Beaujolais,
Cape Mentelle,
Côtes du Rhône,
Fonsalette,
Hunter Valley,
Kras,
Margaret Valley,
Tulloch,
Čotar
perjantai 6. maaliskuuta 2009
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon 2006
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2006 Margaret River; 13% abv; 23,30€; totally screwed up... which is nice.
The back label states that this should have been drunk within two years of harvest. Soon three, but it's still going strong. The back label also says that this sees some oak - it must be only a small amount as it doesn't really show (and you don't know how glad I am about that!).
A very light gold; almost watery. The scent starts out with strong, grassy Sauvignon scents but with only a little time open, the Semillon, gladly, asserts itself. The result is a wine that smells more like the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had than any variant of Sauvignon. The palate is a bit round and smoother than I expected of the grapes (that must be the oak?), but it is crisp and even a bit mineral. I think this was a success, even though it doesn't have the huge personality of the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had. It shows an obvious kinship with the dry white Bordeaux that has come my way, except that I have found too many white Bordeaux heavy handed on the oak. In this wine, the oak was obviously judiciously used since I'm not complaining about it. Nice wine!
The back label states that this should have been drunk within two years of harvest. Soon three, but it's still going strong. The back label also says that this sees some oak - it must be only a small amount as it doesn't really show (and you don't know how glad I am about that!).
A very light gold; almost watery. The scent starts out with strong, grassy Sauvignon scents but with only a little time open, the Semillon, gladly, asserts itself. The result is a wine that smells more like the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had than any variant of Sauvignon. The palate is a bit round and smoother than I expected of the grapes (that must be the oak?), but it is crisp and even a bit mineral. I think this was a success, even though it doesn't have the huge personality of the few Hunter Valley Semillons I have had. It shows an obvious kinship with the dry white Bordeaux that has come my way, except that I have found too many white Bordeaux heavy handed on the oak. In this wine, the oak was obviously judiciously used since I'm not complaining about it. Nice wine!
Tunnisteet:
Australia,
Cape Mentelle,
Margaret River,
Sauvignon Blanc,
Semillon
keskiviikko 4. maaliskuuta 2009
Can Camps Pedradura 2004

Can Camps Pedradura 2004 from Massís del Garraf, Penedès; it cost c.10€ in Barcelona; 13,5% abv.
This is made from Marselan, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that was developed in France in the early '60s (the name derives from Marseille). This seems like an unlikely pair to cross, but this wine and the 2003 worked really well! The scent does show some of Cab Sauv's slightly greenish/herbaceous and earthy character, but it is also as sweet and ripe as one would expect Grenache to be. The palate is deep and refreshingly tannic, sweetly fruity with bright acidity. It seems to show the best sides of both grapes yet their personalities don't clash. Clean, refreshing aftertaste. For 10€, a great bargain. I wonder if anyone else makes a varietal Marselan? Is this wine an anomaly for being so good or does it really work in a Mediterranean climate?
maanantai 2. maaliskuuta 2009
Tour Peyronneau and Duval Plexus 2005

Last week I met up with a couple friends for a little dinner of herb encrusted beef and two young wines.
We have been receiving a several moderately priced (by Finnish standards - these are probably cheaper everywhere else) 2005s and 2006s. I bought a curious wine I had never heard of before: Château Tour Peyronneau 2005 St.-Emilion Grand Cru; 13,5%; 19,57€.
What makes this curious is that it is listed as 100% Merlot - I don't remember seeing another St.-Emilion as a varietal Merlot, but I suppose there must be some others, too. Also curious was that I didn't find a reference to this property in Peppercorn or Johnson's pocket book. But the wine was rather attractive! Before realising it was a St.-Emilion, I blurted out to my dinner companions that it showed much pure Pomerol character despite some oak that needs to integrate. But even now with the label before me I still agree: it is fleshy, plummy, loamy with dark and sweet fruit. Full bodied and sweetly fruity palate, fleshy, soft but with and undercurrent of tannins that keep the boisterous fruit in check despite the low acidity. Despite the wine's fruit forward nature, it is refreshing. A very nice surprise especially because it is drinking so well in this youthful stage. I guess it will soon shut down - it seems to have the elements required to age some time.
John Duval Wines Plexus 2005 Barossa; 33,80€; 14,5% abv; 6,1g/l acidity; Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvédre (sic!); 17% new French oak.
Purplosity, tar, mulberry jam - seems stereotypical Barossa! Yet there is also a scent that is reminiscent of Southern Rhones - physalis peruviana and some garrigue, a little meaty - except the whole seems rather amplified. Extremely full bodied, massive and insert a few more superlatives here and you get the picture. But it does have pretty decent acidity that carries the fruit. The tannins are so soft as to be non-existent. I don't enjoy the stereotypical "bruiser" style of Barossa, but I must admit that if one likes that style, I imagine this would be a rather impressive wine as it has all of that bigness yet the natures of the grapes of the blend come through and the alcohol, though very high on the label, isn't offensive.
Tunnisteet:
Australia,
Barossa,
Bordeaux,
John Duval,
St-Emilion,
Tour Peyronneau
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