Future Wine Ambassador Fundi 2007 14% abv; PETIT VERDOT (36 %), CABERNET SAUVIGNON (27 %), MALBEC (27 %), MERLOT (10 %)
This was sourced from Waterkloof in Stellenbosch and Paarl. It was released by Wines of South Africa with the purpose of training 2000 wine stewards from "previously disadvantaged people" for the 2010 Soccer World Cup. The name comes from the Zulu for "learner".
This was a nice wine, but not so much to my taste that I find this good QPR at 20€, but since the proceeds seem to go to making life (hopefully) better for 2000 people, one shouldn't complain. It is ripe, full of sweet, dark berry aromas. It smells like a well made Bx blend of a ripe style should: a slight refreshing lift and damp earth mixed with the dark fruit. The strong proportion of PV in the blend is perhaps what gives it an attractive scent of violet or some such flower? Ripe, very nice tannins that are ripe but still refreshing, perfectly decent though not high acidity. 10% new oak, and it is well hidden. It is certainly an attractive wine, seemingly unspoofulated, and with a bit of character.
torstai 28. toukokuuta 2009
No more single state solution?
The Jerusalem Post has a frightening article: Calls to end Israel may incur jail term. A two state solution to the Israel-Palestine feud obviously isn't a workable idea since it has been tried since 1937 to no effect. Virginia Tilley (in e.g. this article from the London Review of Books) has advocated a one-state solution which has been pretty well received e.g. by Tony Judt, but of course this topic will always see lots of pro-Zionist outrage. Tilley also has a book on the topic, which I must get around to reading. I do hope that despite the worrying article in JP, this academic idea will continue to be explored - there has to be an alternative to the failed dual-state solution.
tiistai 26. toukokuuta 2009
21 blind wines
25th of May (Towel Day to all who like Douglas Adams) was a last moment blind practice that an acquaintance with a deep, if modernly styled, cellar put up for Taina V. before she goes to do the Master of Wine exam next week. We had three flights of seven totally blind reds. Only our host knew what we were drinking.
Flight One
Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero 2000 smelled tight and a bit oaky (I wonder why? Isn't this supposed to be a pretty traditional producer?) with a touch of chocolate. Very ripe fruit for Nebbiolo, but also obviously Nebbiolo. Very decent if one likes a modern style (one more interjection after tasting: I was thinking of Vietti when tasting this - did I utterly misunderstand the Alessadria philosophy?).
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2003 smelled of oak and lingonberry jam, certainly not a Burgundy (oops!), but seems like a not too OTT NZ style (oops again!). Very plump, sweet and oaky, jammy - obviously Pinot but not a style that I enjoy.
Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert 1997 was a lovely, leafy style with quite a bit of sucrosity. It smelled like an unspoofulated Bordeaux, but was lighter in texture yet strangely sweet in fruit. I still guessed a Left Bank with a bit of age (oops - this word will recur often tonight, lol!).
Mas d'en Gil Priorat Clos Fonta 1998 smelled of dark cherries and oak - it seemed rather anonymous. Sweet, pleasantly tannic, very alcoholic (I was surprised that the label had "only" 14,5% abv!). It's not bad wine as such, just something very different from what I like to drink.
Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2003 was an inky mess that smelled of chocolate and cherry. Soft and sweet. The best thing I can say about it is that it was anonymous and boring.
Anima Negra An 2004 was a wine from Mallorca made predominantly from Callet with a bit of two other mainstream grapes (Mantonegro and Fogoneu) thrown in. It seems like such a fascinating creature but sadly it smelled of toasted oak and some vague fruit aroma a bit reminiscent of Pinot when drenched in oak. It also tasted oaky and was very sweetly fruity. My guess was a wine from the quercus grape.
Clos St. Jean Châteaneuf-du-Pape 2004 was a correct if not hugely exciting example of a Grenache based wine. Bright red fruit, very, very sweet; decent structure, but a bit fruit-heavy. I guess it might become more interesting with some age.
Flight Two
Pago de Carrovejas Ribera del Duero Tinto Reserva 2003 smelled of rhubarb jam. Plump fruit with harsh, seemingly fake acidity, Ewww! I guessed it was a Chilean Cab and cheap.
Bodegas Baigorri Reserva 2002 was soft, plump, very modern and with a bit of Pinot-like fruit hiding underneath the charred oak. Soft tannins, feminine except for the disastrous oak and harsh alcohol. Ewww!
Ch. Vieux Maillet 2000 was at last a wine with a sense of place: dark, primary fruit with pencil shavings/graphite/cedar, etc. that Bordeaux has. I did think it more a Médoc than a Pomerol when served blind (oops for the x'th time). It seemed pretty un-spoofulated yet very young and with oak to shed, but from a ripe year, so I thought 2005 (oops again).
J.L. Chave Selection Hermitage Farconnet 2001 was a very attractive wine. It smells deliciously animal but with peach stone and dark fruit aromas that I hope to see in the N. Rhône. Sturdy, but friendly already. Nice! (And for once, yay!, I guessed the area right!)
Burge Family Draycott Shiraz (Barossa) 2001 smelled sharp and fake and like the rhubarb jam that I too often find in Chilean Cabs. Sweet, unstructured, hot and horrible. (I feel sad for being so harsh as almost everyone else liked it!).
La Brancaia Chianti Classico 2006. Wine? Nope. I wonder how an alcoholic drink made from oak and fermented and aged in new oak was able to get the words Chianti Classico on the label?
Janzen Estate (Bacio Divino) Vagabond 2005 was a Syrah + Cab Sauv Blend from Napa Valley. It again smelled of rhubarb jam (why do so many wines I dislike smell of rhubarb jam? is there a popular yeast that emphasizes such scents?) and it was sweet and had too high alcohol (only 14% IIRC, but seemed more when tasting blind).
Flight Three
Ch. du Tertre 2002 was a very classic Bordeaux. I was guessing Pauillac rather than Margaux, but it smelled of pencil shavings and cassis and was wonderfully cool and restrained. The oak was already integrated. Lightish, refreshing and wonderfully moreish. Much more classy than expected from its pedigree!
Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 was a rather strange Maipo Valley, Chilean. I kind of liked it as it had some strange mustard, cumin aromas (as in Pinotage) yet these were elegantly integrated into a cassis aroma. Full body, but not offensively oaky. It was a big, sweet, in-your-face wine but with a personality different enough from the Chilean in-your-face norm! (Though it is of course debatable whether any in-your-faceness can be thought positive.) Despite the currant aromas I still guessed this is as one of the better Pinotages (oops!).
Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2005 was a decent drop, but nothing special. What I most liked about it was that it was honest (at least in this company) and didn't try to cover up itself in a spoofy cloak. It was a sweet but lively drop. Not hugely memorable, but perfectly drinkable.
Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri 2007 was sweet and very lactic. It tasted lactic. The aftertaste was like yogurt. I don't know what to think of it since I couldn't really see anything but hints of massively ripe fruit behind the lactic curtain.
Domaine Cros Les Aspres 2004 a 100% Syrah from Minervois. It smelled massively sweet, almost like a dessert: ink and cola. Sweet, oaky and alcoholic. Not to my taste at all.
Copain James Berry Syrah Paso Robles 2005 was a rather interesting Californian: it had obvious Syrah aromas but was sadly enveloped in a blanket of new oak. Good structure, honest fruit. Dishonest blanket. It is more tragic when there is a Syrah of such obvious beauty that is blanketed like this than it is with a wine that is so spoofulated that one can't see anything of the wine itself.
Bellingham The Maverick Syrah 2005 was a South African Shiraz, not Syrah. Mulberry and vanillary oak is all I smell. It tastes not like a blueberry but a strawberry milkshake.
Knowing the taste of our host, it is not a surprise that I didn't like many of the wines; rather the surprise was how many I did actually enjoy! Most importantly of all, it was huge fun and was hopefully a bit of good practice for Taina before her ordeal.
Flight One
Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero 2000 smelled tight and a bit oaky (I wonder why? Isn't this supposed to be a pretty traditional producer?) with a touch of chocolate. Very ripe fruit for Nebbiolo, but also obviously Nebbiolo. Very decent if one likes a modern style (one more interjection after tasting: I was thinking of Vietti when tasting this - did I utterly misunderstand the Alessadria philosophy?).
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2003 smelled of oak and lingonberry jam, certainly not a Burgundy (oops!), but seems like a not too OTT NZ style (oops again!). Very plump, sweet and oaky, jammy - obviously Pinot but not a style that I enjoy.
Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert 1997 was a lovely, leafy style with quite a bit of sucrosity. It smelled like an unspoofulated Bordeaux, but was lighter in texture yet strangely sweet in fruit. I still guessed a Left Bank with a bit of age (oops - this word will recur often tonight, lol!).
Mas d'en Gil Priorat Clos Fonta 1998 smelled of dark cherries and oak - it seemed rather anonymous. Sweet, pleasantly tannic, very alcoholic (I was surprised that the label had "only" 14,5% abv!). It's not bad wine as such, just something very different from what I like to drink.
Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2003 was an inky mess that smelled of chocolate and cherry. Soft and sweet. The best thing I can say about it is that it was anonymous and boring.
Anima Negra An 2004 was a wine from Mallorca made predominantly from Callet with a bit of two other mainstream grapes (Mantonegro and Fogoneu) thrown in. It seems like such a fascinating creature but sadly it smelled of toasted oak and some vague fruit aroma a bit reminiscent of Pinot when drenched in oak. It also tasted oaky and was very sweetly fruity. My guess was a wine from the quercus grape.
Clos St. Jean Châteaneuf-du-Pape 2004 was a correct if not hugely exciting example of a Grenache based wine. Bright red fruit, very, very sweet; decent structure, but a bit fruit-heavy. I guess it might become more interesting with some age.
Flight Two
Pago de Carrovejas Ribera del Duero Tinto Reserva 2003 smelled of rhubarb jam. Plump fruit with harsh, seemingly fake acidity, Ewww! I guessed it was a Chilean Cab and cheap.
Bodegas Baigorri Reserva 2002 was soft, plump, very modern and with a bit of Pinot-like fruit hiding underneath the charred oak. Soft tannins, feminine except for the disastrous oak and harsh alcohol. Ewww!
Ch. Vieux Maillet 2000 was at last a wine with a sense of place: dark, primary fruit with pencil shavings/graphite/cedar, etc. that Bordeaux has. I did think it more a Médoc than a Pomerol when served blind (oops for the x'th time). It seemed pretty un-spoofulated yet very young and with oak to shed, but from a ripe year, so I thought 2005 (oops again).
J.L. Chave Selection Hermitage Farconnet 2001 was a very attractive wine. It smells deliciously animal but with peach stone and dark fruit aromas that I hope to see in the N. Rhône. Sturdy, but friendly already. Nice! (And for once, yay!, I guessed the area right!)
Burge Family Draycott Shiraz (Barossa) 2001 smelled sharp and fake and like the rhubarb jam that I too often find in Chilean Cabs. Sweet, unstructured, hot and horrible. (I feel sad for being so harsh as almost everyone else liked it!).
La Brancaia Chianti Classico 2006. Wine? Nope. I wonder how an alcoholic drink made from oak and fermented and aged in new oak was able to get the words Chianti Classico on the label?
Janzen Estate (Bacio Divino) Vagabond 2005 was a Syrah + Cab Sauv Blend from Napa Valley. It again smelled of rhubarb jam (why do so many wines I dislike smell of rhubarb jam? is there a popular yeast that emphasizes such scents?) and it was sweet and had too high alcohol (only 14% IIRC, but seemed more when tasting blind).
Flight Three
Ch. du Tertre 2002 was a very classic Bordeaux. I was guessing Pauillac rather than Margaux, but it smelled of pencil shavings and cassis and was wonderfully cool and restrained. The oak was already integrated. Lightish, refreshing and wonderfully moreish. Much more classy than expected from its pedigree!
Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 was a rather strange Maipo Valley, Chilean. I kind of liked it as it had some strange mustard, cumin aromas (as in Pinotage) yet these were elegantly integrated into a cassis aroma. Full body, but not offensively oaky. It was a big, sweet, in-your-face wine but with a personality different enough from the Chilean in-your-face norm! (Though it is of course debatable whether any in-your-faceness can be thought positive.) Despite the currant aromas I still guessed this is as one of the better Pinotages (oops!).
Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2005 was a decent drop, but nothing special. What I most liked about it was that it was honest (at least in this company) and didn't try to cover up itself in a spoofy cloak. It was a sweet but lively drop. Not hugely memorable, but perfectly drinkable.
Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri 2007 was sweet and very lactic. It tasted lactic. The aftertaste was like yogurt. I don't know what to think of it since I couldn't really see anything but hints of massively ripe fruit behind the lactic curtain.
Domaine Cros Les Aspres 2004 a 100% Syrah from Minervois. It smelled massively sweet, almost like a dessert: ink and cola. Sweet, oaky and alcoholic. Not to my taste at all.
Copain James Berry Syrah Paso Robles 2005 was a rather interesting Californian: it had obvious Syrah aromas but was sadly enveloped in a blanket of new oak. Good structure, honest fruit. Dishonest blanket. It is more tragic when there is a Syrah of such obvious beauty that is blanketed like this than it is with a wine that is so spoofulated that one can't see anything of the wine itself.
Bellingham The Maverick Syrah 2005 was a South African Shiraz, not Syrah. Mulberry and vanillary oak is all I smell. It tastes not like a blueberry but a strawberry milkshake.
Knowing the taste of our host, it is not a surprise that I didn't like many of the wines; rather the surprise was how many I did actually enjoy! Most importantly of all, it was huge fun and was hopefully a bit of good practice for Taina before her ordeal.
tiistai 19. toukokuuta 2009
Triguedina "Prince Probus" 2000
Clos Triguedina Cahors "Prince Probus" 2000 13% abv; c.33€This is a beautiful wine. It is a meaty, vegetal, wild wine with some Provençal herbs. It has a lovely, tannic structure, too, and quite a wonderful purity of fruit.
But can anyone lend me an ax or perhaps a chainsaw? Most annoyingly there is a stout oak door between the wine and I, and I would like to knock it down.
lauantai 16. toukokuuta 2009
Fourcas Dupré 2005 & Y. Amirault La Mine 2006
Château Fourcas Dupré 2005 - Listrac-Médoc
13% abv; 24,10€; c. half and half Cab Sauv and Merlot with a dash of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot; Cru Bourgeois Superieur. This was a lighter bodied style, though it did show some of the flesh I have come to expect from the year. It has an attractively open and forward scent of dark fruit, wet clay and a pleasant Cabernet lift. The occasional sniff seems to have a tiny hint of dung, too (which I love in these small amounts!). About a third of the wine sees new oak, and, indeed, the oak could use more time to calm down. The palate has good, ripe but refreshing tannins, low acidity - sadly - but it is still refreshing and, within its context with other '05s, a lighter style (which I am quite happy about). The ripe, juicy fruit coupled to the lighter body almost brought Loire Cabernet Franc to my mind except the flavour profile, of course, is a bit different. Curiously attractive already in a very primary way; I'm not certain this will go for decades but should improve in the medium term.
Yannick Amirault Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil La Mine 2006 - Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
13%; 24,60€ in the special order selection. It starts out very primary with a bit of sucrosity to the lovely Cab Franc perfume. With an hour or so of air, the savoury, leafy, tobacco aspects gladly overwhelm the sweetness and the result is fantastically drinkable and enjoyable. It is sweetly fruity, but has a lovely, juicy lightness about it that makes it extremely refreshing and moreish. Nice stuff!
13% abv; 24,10€; c. half and half Cab Sauv and Merlot with a dash of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot; Cru Bourgeois Superieur. This was a lighter bodied style, though it did show some of the flesh I have come to expect from the year. It has an attractively open and forward scent of dark fruit, wet clay and a pleasant Cabernet lift. The occasional sniff seems to have a tiny hint of dung, too (which I love in these small amounts!). About a third of the wine sees new oak, and, indeed, the oak could use more time to calm down. The palate has good, ripe but refreshing tannins, low acidity - sadly - but it is still refreshing and, within its context with other '05s, a lighter style (which I am quite happy about). The ripe, juicy fruit coupled to the lighter body almost brought Loire Cabernet Franc to my mind except the flavour profile, of course, is a bit different. Curiously attractive already in a very primary way; I'm not certain this will go for decades but should improve in the medium term.
Yannick Amirault Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil La Mine 2006 - Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
13%; 24,60€ in the special order selection. It starts out very primary with a bit of sucrosity to the lovely Cab Franc perfume. With an hour or so of air, the savoury, leafy, tobacco aspects gladly overwhelm the sweetness and the result is fantastically drinkable and enjoyable. It is sweetly fruity, but has a lovely, juicy lightness about it that makes it extremely refreshing and moreish. Nice stuff!
torstai 14. toukokuuta 2009
J-P Brun (Terres Dorées) Beaujolais Blanc 2007
In some parts of the internet, J-P Brun (Terres Dorées) has an almost cultish following. I can very well understand why since the wines always tend to be varying degrees of awesome. So I was very happy that we got the Bourgogne Rouge a little while back. And now we just got the Beaujolais Chardonnay 2007 available!
Showing quite a bit of lactic aromas, but gladly no oak. Crisp, citric, quite round even - especially since it sees no oak and has only 12% abv. And most importantly, it was very much fun with a fillet of arctic char.
Julicher, NZ, Martinborough: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Noir
Having a Finnish winemaker, Outi Jakovirta, Julicher has seen quite a bit of press over here - though I haven't seen any reports elsewhere! These wines were very correct and had leanings towards the French "ideals", yet they had personalities of their own. Curmudgeon that I am, I did have slight misgivings, though on the whole they were successful wines.
Julicher Estate Riesling 2007 - Martinborough
12% abv; screw cap; ( label ). This smells of lemongrass and candied limes. Though I would ideally have less of the candied aspect, I still find it pleasurable. Dry, varietally true, with full fruit, deliciously juicy acidity, perhaps the slightest touch of RS so that the fruit is very friendly despite all the crisp citrus flavours. Nice! Not a great Riesling, but I still enjoyed it.
Julicher Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 - Martinborough
14% abv; 6,7g/l acidity; screw cap; ( label ). Light as water. I like the scent, though I'm not usually a fan of the grape. It has some minerality or sea-breeze/seashell or some such oceanic aroma mixed to the ripe, grassy, citrussy, almost Loire-SB aroma. This isn't an in-your-face mix of gooseberry, cats' piss and tropical fruit, but is rather refined and elegant in my limited experience of NZ SB. I was therefore quite surprised at the sheer weight on the palate: full bodied and not as electric as I hoped and expected, but not lifeless either, just curiously round. They apparently use a bit of French oak, to "impart some mid-palate roundness." Though the oak isn't obvious, I can't help but think that I would have enjoyed this more without the roundness. Long and mineral. Despite my slight criticism, it wasn't bad at all.
Julicher Estate Pinot Noir 2006 - Martinborough
14-14,5% abv depending on the source; 6,1g/l acidity; under screw cap; ( label ). This doesn't start out very promisingly for my taste as cranberry jam aromas are all I initially perceive. An hour of exposure to air opens up the hidden dimensions. The fruit gains a savoury, earthy edge and the lovely beetroot aromas of the grape appear whereas the jam goes into hiding. Sadly, also, the toasty oak does come forward (13 months in 50% new French oak) but in almost inoffensive amounts even for me though I very much dislike any obvious oak aromas. Full body, lots of sweet Pinosity, lively acidity, more obvious oak than on the scent. This is a big Pinot, but I did find it quite intriguing and can see myself enjoying this in a couple years if the oak will follow the jam into hiding.
Julicher Estate Riesling 2007 - Martinborough
12% abv; screw cap; ( label ). This smells of lemongrass and candied limes. Though I would ideally have less of the candied aspect, I still find it pleasurable. Dry, varietally true, with full fruit, deliciously juicy acidity, perhaps the slightest touch of RS so that the fruit is very friendly despite all the crisp citrus flavours. Nice! Not a great Riesling, but I still enjoyed it.
Julicher Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 - Martinborough
14% abv; 6,7g/l acidity; screw cap; ( label ). Light as water. I like the scent, though I'm not usually a fan of the grape. It has some minerality or sea-breeze/seashell or some such oceanic aroma mixed to the ripe, grassy, citrussy, almost Loire-SB aroma. This isn't an in-your-face mix of gooseberry, cats' piss and tropical fruit, but is rather refined and elegant in my limited experience of NZ SB. I was therefore quite surprised at the sheer weight on the palate: full bodied and not as electric as I hoped and expected, but not lifeless either, just curiously round. They apparently use a bit of French oak, to "impart some mid-palate roundness." Though the oak isn't obvious, I can't help but think that I would have enjoyed this more without the roundness. Long and mineral. Despite my slight criticism, it wasn't bad at all.
Julicher Estate Pinot Noir 2006 - Martinborough
14-14,5% abv depending on the source; 6,1g/l acidity; under screw cap; ( label ). This doesn't start out very promisingly for my taste as cranberry jam aromas are all I initially perceive. An hour of exposure to air opens up the hidden dimensions. The fruit gains a savoury, earthy edge and the lovely beetroot aromas of the grape appear whereas the jam goes into hiding. Sadly, also, the toasty oak does come forward (13 months in 50% new French oak) but in almost inoffensive amounts even for me though I very much dislike any obvious oak aromas. Full body, lots of sweet Pinosity, lively acidity, more obvious oak than on the scent. This is a big Pinot, but I did find it quite intriguing and can see myself enjoying this in a couple years if the oak will follow the jam into hiding.
keskiviikko 13. toukokuuta 2009
Two decent but uninspiring halves of Champagne
N.V. Deutz Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne (5/7/2009)
I have enjoyed quite a few Deutzs, and though this was very drinkable, I didn't find it special or memorable. 23,70€/half bottle is not good value at all. Quite a dark pink. The scent has aromas of red berries, earth and figs - exactly what one expects of Pinot Noir. Nice, elegant mousse, good structure. It isn't bad at all; but neither is it memorable.
N.V. Vranken Champagne Demoiselle Tete de Cuvée EO Brut - France, Champagne (5/7/2009)
A perfectly decent bottle of fizz: 60% Chardonnay, 30%PN, 10% PM; 19,26€/0,375. It smells of minerals and red apples. It isn't a hugely complex scent, but it is enjoyable. Lovely crispness, some red fruit suggestive of the Pinots, but the Chardonnay crispness is to the fore. Nice enough, but not special. It is, however, one of the few half-bottles available here.
I have enjoyed quite a few Deutzs, and though this was very drinkable, I didn't find it special or memorable. 23,70€/half bottle is not good value at all. Quite a dark pink. The scent has aromas of red berries, earth and figs - exactly what one expects of Pinot Noir. Nice, elegant mousse, good structure. It isn't bad at all; but neither is it memorable.
N.V. Vranken Champagne Demoiselle Tete de Cuvée EO Brut - France, Champagne (5/7/2009)
A perfectly decent bottle of fizz: 60% Chardonnay, 30%PN, 10% PM; 19,26€/0,375. It smells of minerals and red apples. It isn't a hugely complex scent, but it is enjoyable. Lovely crispness, some red fruit suggestive of the Pinots, but the Chardonnay crispness is to the fore. Nice enough, but not special. It is, however, one of the few half-bottles available here.
maanantai 11. toukokuuta 2009
Barbaglio 2004
Cooperativa Agricola Santa Barbara Barbaglio Salento IGT 2004 Puglia; 13,17€; 13,5%.
Since tasting the 2000 this has been one of my favourite cheaper wines available in Finland. I think the 2004 might just be the most successful of them all, however! Like with all the vintages, my first sniff causes an immediate association with Musar: bright red fruit, some VA, a rather rustic style. Full body, wonderful liveliness, cherry; lively structure so it is very moreish - a naughty wine! Lovely stuff! So maybe not popular here, but I love it.
Since tasting the 2000 this has been one of my favourite cheaper wines available in Finland. I think the 2004 might just be the most successful of them all, however! Like with all the vintages, my first sniff causes an immediate association with Musar: bright red fruit, some VA, a rather rustic style. Full body, wonderful liveliness, cherry; lively structure so it is very moreish - a naughty wine! Lovely stuff! So maybe not popular here, but I love it.
Leyda Garuma Sauvignon Blanc & Heartland Dolcetto/Lagrein
Viña Leyda Sauvignon Blanc Garuma Vineyard 2007 - Chile, Aconcagua, Casablanca Valley, Leyda Valley
9,84€; 13,5% abv. Green colour and deliciously green scent of peas and gooseberry, minerals, too. It seems like unadulterated Sauvignon, more of the Loire style than the NZ despite being very open and forward and lacking the elegance of the best Loires. Full body for the grape, deliciously high acidity with an attractive tart quality to the otherwise forward fruit. It isn't a profound wine but it is nice. I was surprised that I liked this, since I usually dislike the grape. Good value, too at under 10€.
Heartland Dolcetto/Lagrein 2007- Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Langhorne Creek; Limestone Coast
15,30€; 14,5% abv; from Ben Glaetzer. Purple. Who knew these two grapes could make a Barossa Shiraz? This is big and burly, a bruiser with aromas of tar and mulberry with a layer of oak that smells of Christmas spices. Full bodied, sweet, oaky - I can easily see the appeal in this, though it isn't really to my tastes. My guests loved it. I also found positive that it had slight vegetal aromas once it had a few hours' air - it moved from a jammy wine to a more savoury style. Also, it wasn't so monolithically massive as some Barossas are, but rather it was quite lively on the palate. The massive alcohol wasn't evident at all. So it wasn't a wine to my taste, but it was one that I can easily understand why almost everyone else loves it!
9,84€; 13,5% abv. Green colour and deliciously green scent of peas and gooseberry, minerals, too. It seems like unadulterated Sauvignon, more of the Loire style than the NZ despite being very open and forward and lacking the elegance of the best Loires. Full body for the grape, deliciously high acidity with an attractive tart quality to the otherwise forward fruit. It isn't a profound wine but it is nice. I was surprised that I liked this, since I usually dislike the grape. Good value, too at under 10€.
Heartland Dolcetto/Lagrein 2007- Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Langhorne Creek; Limestone Coast
15,30€; 14,5% abv; from Ben Glaetzer. Purple. Who knew these two grapes could make a Barossa Shiraz? This is big and burly, a bruiser with aromas of tar and mulberry with a layer of oak that smells of Christmas spices. Full bodied, sweet, oaky - I can easily see the appeal in this, though it isn't really to my tastes. My guests loved it. I also found positive that it had slight vegetal aromas once it had a few hours' air - it moved from a jammy wine to a more savoury style. Also, it wasn't so monolithically massive as some Barossas are, but rather it was quite lively on the palate. The massive alcohol wasn't evident at all. So it wasn't a wine to my taste, but it was one that I can easily understand why almost everyone else loves it!
perjantai 8. toukokuuta 2009
Musars with AlexL at Canteen, Spitalfields, 4.5.2009
Finally, on my last day in England, a small group met in the Spitalfields Canteen for some Musar. The 1998 White was as wonderful as it has always been: tannic, quite tight, but apricotty and earthy and wonderfully moreish. The 1999 White was more fleshy and round but it also opened up to a very enjoyable wine. I did prefer the tautness of the '98 over the richness of the '99, but I would love to own both.
The reds were a lovely bunch as always. Sadly the 1977 was slightly corked - as has been all but one bottle I have had. The 1991 was its usual, awesome self. Rich fruit, but bright and lively, some VA but nothing that would bother me. Instead I find it is very complex, food friendly (the Lamb was really nice that evening) and moreish. Dangerously moreish, in fact. The 1993 doesn't seem to be much appreciated, but I have always enjoyed it tremendously. It is a bit softer than the 1991 and doesn't provide such a wild ride - but oddly, therefore, isn't as successful with classical European dishes, but rather it works well with spicier, Mediterranean fare.
One vintage that I have usually disliked is the 1996 yet a few years seems to have done wonders with it - just as it did with another year that I thought initially was rubbish, the 1990. This certainly was a lighter Musar without the interminable aftertaste the good ones tend to have, yet it had all the classic aromas I expect when I see the letters "Musar" on the label. So it was a bit short and light, but it was still great fun to drink!
The 1999 once again seemed to be a wine that will eventually be on the level of the 1991. Yes, it is very young. Yes, it is in-your-face just now. Yes, it is sweet. Yes, it is big. But No, I cannot rationalize why I like the wine when it is so different from the norm of what I enjoy. Lovely wine but needs age.
The reds were a lovely bunch as always. Sadly the 1977 was slightly corked - as has been all but one bottle I have had. The 1991 was its usual, awesome self. Rich fruit, but bright and lively, some VA but nothing that would bother me. Instead I find it is very complex, food friendly (the Lamb was really nice that evening) and moreish. Dangerously moreish, in fact. The 1993 doesn't seem to be much appreciated, but I have always enjoyed it tremendously. It is a bit softer than the 1991 and doesn't provide such a wild ride - but oddly, therefore, isn't as successful with classical European dishes, but rather it works well with spicier, Mediterranean fare.
One vintage that I have usually disliked is the 1996 yet a few years seems to have done wonders with it - just as it did with another year that I thought initially was rubbish, the 1990. This certainly was a lighter Musar without the interminable aftertaste the good ones tend to have, yet it had all the classic aromas I expect when I see the letters "Musar" on the label. So it was a bit short and light, but it was still great fun to drink!
The 1999 once again seemed to be a wine that will eventually be on the level of the 1991. Yes, it is very young. Yes, it is in-your-face just now. Yes, it is sweet. Yes, it is big. But No, I cannot rationalize why I like the wine when it is so different from the norm of what I enjoy. Lovely wine but needs age.
torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009
Oxford off-line
3.5. Oxford, at Mark T.'s
Oxford is a horrible town. It is full of fugly architecture like this and unseemly quads like this. So gladly, a long time internet friend, Mark, arranged an evening of fun wines and good food and company.
Chateau des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegres 2002 was an intriguing wine. Mark served it blind and I guessed a Nebbiolo because of its tarry aromas and strong tannins. It had some oak to shed, too, but still was perfectly drinkable and even enjoyable. Certainly not typical Beaujolais, but an enjoyable wine nonetheless.
Arbois Chardonnay Les Bruyères 2005, Tissots-of-all-sorts was a wine I brought to the dinner. It was lovely. It managed to mix a wonderful purity of Chardonnay with an almost flor-like aroma. It was like honey but bone-dry - absolutely no sweetness. I drink this whenever I can: it might just be the best Chardonnay I have so far come across! (That isn't many, I'll admit...)
Tempier Bandol Rosé 2005 was another fun wine. It was strongly mineral, meaty and bright - exactly what I hoped. Quite full bodied - within limits I like, but I did enjoy the tauter 2004 more. Lovely rosé, anyway.
Ch. Musar Blanc 2001 was my first taste of this most recent vintage. It is its usual self: apricot, mineral, oxidative style; good tannins (perhaps a bit surprising in a white), full body but lightish alcohol (12% abv IIRC) for a wine that is so heavy. Very nice!
Huet Le Mont Demi-Sec 2002 was a bit shy on the nose, but was classic Vouvray with its quince and green apple scents. Laser-sharp precision, slight sweetness, but so acidic and delineated that I imagine it is very versatile on the table. Even though I thought it was a bit closed, it was enchanting.
Bert Simon Serriger Würzberg Auslese 1990 was awesome! I hadn't tried any from Simon before, so I had no idea what to expect. It was steely, mineral, pure Riesling-fruit - exactly what I hope for in the Saar. Sweet but so steely and acidic that it isn't sweet - paradoxes in wine are in my experience often what makes for the best experiences.
Samos Anthemis Muscat 2002 was our last sticky. Wonderfully floral, refreshing scent; but the palate is huge, massively sweet, and great fun in small doses.
Oxford is a horrible town. It is full of fugly architecture like this and unseemly quads like this. So gladly, a long time internet friend, Mark, arranged an evening of fun wines and good food and company.
Chateau des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegres 2002 was an intriguing wine. Mark served it blind and I guessed a Nebbiolo because of its tarry aromas and strong tannins. It had some oak to shed, too, but still was perfectly drinkable and even enjoyable. Certainly not typical Beaujolais, but an enjoyable wine nonetheless.
Arbois Chardonnay Les Bruyères 2005, Tissots-of-all-sorts was a wine I brought to the dinner. It was lovely. It managed to mix a wonderful purity of Chardonnay with an almost flor-like aroma. It was like honey but bone-dry - absolutely no sweetness. I drink this whenever I can: it might just be the best Chardonnay I have so far come across! (That isn't many, I'll admit...)
Tempier Bandol Rosé 2005 was another fun wine. It was strongly mineral, meaty and bright - exactly what I hoped. Quite full bodied - within limits I like, but I did enjoy the tauter 2004 more. Lovely rosé, anyway.
Ch. Musar Blanc 2001 was my first taste of this most recent vintage. It is its usual self: apricot, mineral, oxidative style; good tannins (perhaps a bit surprising in a white), full body but lightish alcohol (12% abv IIRC) for a wine that is so heavy. Very nice!
Huet Le Mont Demi-Sec 2002 was a bit shy on the nose, but was classic Vouvray with its quince and green apple scents. Laser-sharp precision, slight sweetness, but so acidic and delineated that I imagine it is very versatile on the table. Even though I thought it was a bit closed, it was enchanting.
Bert Simon Serriger Würzberg Auslese 1990 was awesome! I hadn't tried any from Simon before, so I had no idea what to expect. It was steely, mineral, pure Riesling-fruit - exactly what I hope for in the Saar. Sweet but so steely and acidic that it isn't sweet - paradoxes in wine are in my experience often what makes for the best experiences.
Samos Anthemis Muscat 2002 was our last sticky. Wonderfully floral, refreshing scent; but the palate is huge, massively sweet, and great fun in small doses.
keskiviikko 6. toukokuuta 2009
"Les Caves de Pyrene Presents Real Wine 2009" 30.4.
Domaine de Montrieux, Coteaux du Vendomois had a wonderful red, sparkling Gamay, Boisson Rouge 2008 - slightly sweet, light, vivacious, reminded me a bit of Brun's FRV100 except drier. Their Coteaux du Vendomois Rouge (Pineau d'Aunis) 2005 was really great, too, not as peppery as I expected from the grape, but with lovely, ripe aromas, very lively, as was Domaine de Briseau's "Les Longues Vignes" 2005. I liked Briseaux's whites, too, the Jasnieres Kharakter 2006 (dry) and Clos des Longues Vignes 2005 (sweet) but didn't find them as interesting as the Pineau d'Aunis: they were correct and I would imagine very drinkable, too, but just lacking slightly in a personal touch. Of course, one must understand that this was a big, hurried tasting, so I might very well find them much more rewarding if I had more than a minute with them.
I was happy to get my first taste of Pierre Breton - oddly, it has never been available in Finland (that must be a huge surprise to everyone). The Vouvray 2008 was very primary, but awesomely pure. The reds were lovely and full of that tobacco-like perfume I so like in Francs. The Trinch! 2008 was nice, but not as enjoyable as the others: a bit appley/oxidative (maybe been open a bit too long at this tasting?), but with bright fruit and refreshing structure. Very drinkable and very enjoyable even with the slight oxidative aspect. The Bourgueil Dilettante 2008 was a very classic example of Franc with its delightfully savoury yet refreshingly herbaceous scent. Pure. The Chinon Beaumont 2007 was fun also, with savoury fruit and refreshing despite some richness.
I was also very happy to try the Puzelat line-up. The Pinot Noir NV (but 2006) smelled gorgeously of pure Pinosity, but wasn't quite as lively as I hoped: it seemed to be a bit top-heavy on the sweet end of the spectrum. The "In Cot We Trust" 2007 was lovely, bright and lively, but with a touch of that meatiness one expects from the grape. A very refreshing drop.
These Loires were all light, pure and easy to drink. I think it was the chap from Montrieux (or maybe it was Puzelat?) who told me that he wants to make his red like a white wine: not heavy or tannic, but very easily drinkable. I think all these Loires succeeded in that.
I loved the Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 2007 at our off-line so much that I had to retry it again! Once again, I thought it absolutely marvelous. The Morgon "Classique" 2007 was also lovely and very similar to the CdP except everything was -10%.
I hadn't ever tried Lapalu's wines. The Beaujolais-Village 2008 and Brouilly VV 2008 were both lovely, exactly what I hope to see in Bojos: crunchy, bright fruit, of course the Cru more serious and structured. Sadly I though the Brouilly Croix des Rameaux 2007 had more oak than necessary.
The four from Overnoy-Houillon were just lovely. The Arbois-Pupillin Savagnin Blanc Ouille 2000 was tight, appley and full of energy; the 1999 was softer but still enormously pleasurable. I did prefer the almost tannic structure of the '00, however. The Pupillin Rouge 2004 and 2006 were just enchanting Poulsards. Very light, almost rose in colour, but with fascinating aromatics. They aren't hugely structured wines, but still lovely and lively.
I tried a couple Italian producers as well that I have read about but have never seen in these cold, Siberian shores. Borgogno had a mostly attractive set of wines on show. The Freisa d'Asti 2007 was much fun: bright and focussed, pure, palate-cleansing and moreish. What more can one ask of a wine? The Barolo Classico 2001 surprisingly smelled as if it had a bit of new oak - I thought this was a traditional producer who wouldn't do that? Oh well, the Barolo Storico Liste 2001 was very nice and a more classic profile with bright red fruit, and some enchanting tomato/rust aromas. Lovely, strong tannins. I feel a bit ashamed to admit it, but I love unspoofulated Nebbiolo young, also! The Barolo Classico 1999 was showing much sweet fruit (in as much as Barolo can have sweet fruit, of course), softer and more plump than the 2001s and also nice. The Barolo Classico Riserva 1990 wasn't as raisiny as some 1990s are and I very much enjoyed it even though my Platonic ideal of Barolo would have brighter and redder fruit. A nice line-up for sure, especially getting to taste one matureish vintage. I guess I must have been hallucinating with the oak in the 2001 Classico?
Paolo Bea was the other Italian I tried. We started with an absolutely charming Rosso de Veo 2002 a VdT which was bright and sweet, showing no signs of the weaker vintage. It was a big wine, and I was afraid that the "better" wine would be too much for me. Well, it wasn't. The Sagrantino Montefalco 2004 was a big, friendly wine with some lovely, sunny aromatics and a vibrant and tannic, palate-cleansing taste. Nice wine. I understand the prices tend to be on the high side, but I did enjoy these two!
I was happy to get my first taste of Pierre Breton - oddly, it has never been available in Finland (that must be a huge surprise to everyone). The Vouvray 2008 was very primary, but awesomely pure. The reds were lovely and full of that tobacco-like perfume I so like in Francs. The Trinch! 2008 was nice, but not as enjoyable as the others: a bit appley/oxidative (maybe been open a bit too long at this tasting?), but with bright fruit and refreshing structure. Very drinkable and very enjoyable even with the slight oxidative aspect. The Bourgueil Dilettante 2008 was a very classic example of Franc with its delightfully savoury yet refreshingly herbaceous scent. Pure. The Chinon Beaumont 2007 was fun also, with savoury fruit and refreshing despite some richness.
I was also very happy to try the Puzelat line-up. The Pinot Noir NV (but 2006) smelled gorgeously of pure Pinosity, but wasn't quite as lively as I hoped: it seemed to be a bit top-heavy on the sweet end of the spectrum. The "In Cot We Trust" 2007 was lovely, bright and lively, but with a touch of that meatiness one expects from the grape. A very refreshing drop.
These Loires were all light, pure and easy to drink. I think it was the chap from Montrieux (or maybe it was Puzelat?) who told me that he wants to make his red like a white wine: not heavy or tannic, but very easily drinkable. I think all these Loires succeeded in that.
I loved the Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 2007 at our off-line so much that I had to retry it again! Once again, I thought it absolutely marvelous. The Morgon "Classique" 2007 was also lovely and very similar to the CdP except everything was -10%.
I hadn't ever tried Lapalu's wines. The Beaujolais-Village 2008 and Brouilly VV 2008 were both lovely, exactly what I hope to see in Bojos: crunchy, bright fruit, of course the Cru more serious and structured. Sadly I though the Brouilly Croix des Rameaux 2007 had more oak than necessary.
The four from Overnoy-Houillon were just lovely. The Arbois-Pupillin Savagnin Blanc Ouille 2000 was tight, appley and full of energy; the 1999 was softer but still enormously pleasurable. I did prefer the almost tannic structure of the '00, however. The Pupillin Rouge 2004 and 2006 were just enchanting Poulsards. Very light, almost rose in colour, but with fascinating aromatics. They aren't hugely structured wines, but still lovely and lively.
I tried a couple Italian producers as well that I have read about but have never seen in these cold, Siberian shores. Borgogno had a mostly attractive set of wines on show. The Freisa d'Asti 2007 was much fun: bright and focussed, pure, palate-cleansing and moreish. What more can one ask of a wine? The Barolo Classico 2001 surprisingly smelled as if it had a bit of new oak - I thought this was a traditional producer who wouldn't do that? Oh well, the Barolo Storico Liste 2001 was very nice and a more classic profile with bright red fruit, and some enchanting tomato/rust aromas. Lovely, strong tannins. I feel a bit ashamed to admit it, but I love unspoofulated Nebbiolo young, also! The Barolo Classico 1999 was showing much sweet fruit (in as much as Barolo can have sweet fruit, of course), softer and more plump than the 2001s and also nice. The Barolo Classico Riserva 1990 wasn't as raisiny as some 1990s are and I very much enjoyed it even though my Platonic ideal of Barolo would have brighter and redder fruit. A nice line-up for sure, especially getting to taste one matureish vintage. I guess I must have been hallucinating with the oak in the 2001 Classico?
Paolo Bea was the other Italian I tried. We started with an absolutely charming Rosso de Veo 2002 a VdT which was bright and sweet, showing no signs of the weaker vintage. It was a big wine, and I was afraid that the "better" wine would be too much for me. Well, it wasn't. The Sagrantino Montefalco 2004 was a big, friendly wine with some lovely, sunny aromatics and a vibrant and tannic, palate-cleansing taste. Nice wine. I understand the prices tend to be on the high side, but I did enjoy these two!
Terroirs, London, 29.4.2009
29.4. at Terroirs
The Chateau de la Mercrediere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine 1999 was a lovely drop. I didn't find it very typical of Muscadet, but maybe that is because I have little experience with them when they get more than a few years' age. It was still mineral and had lovely acidity, but I thought it had a slight funkiness to it, so I was guessing a Jura Chardonnay from some producer that doesn't make a full-on oxidised style.
Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Ch. des Jacques Clos de la Roche 2000 was a lovely wine but more Burgundian and marked by oak than what I perhaps expect from Bojo. But the oak had integrated well and it was a huge pleasure to drink.
Judging by the evaporation rate, however, I think it was the Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 2007 that I most fell in love with. It was everything that is good about natural wines: lively, pure and dangerously drinkable.
The Cos Pithos 2007 had much the same attributes as the Foillard except it has more sun and all that is associated with more sun. But since it retained the extraordinary liveliness, I didn't mind the sweetness and bigness at all.
Chateau Bernadotte, Haut Medoc 1996 was unspoofulated, classic Claret. And that is always lovely. I thought it was drinking beautifully now. Drink and hold.
I loved the food at Terroirs, and the wine list had only one or two wines that I wouldn't care to drink! Many, if not most, wines at Terroirs are from Les Caves de Pyrene - a truly wonderful company that imports almost solely endlessly fascinating wines. So I was very happy that Richard Shama at this off-line managed to get me a ticket to CdP's trade tasting the next day!
The Chateau de la Mercrediere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine 1999 was a lovely drop. I didn't find it very typical of Muscadet, but maybe that is because I have little experience with them when they get more than a few years' age. It was still mineral and had lovely acidity, but I thought it had a slight funkiness to it, so I was guessing a Jura Chardonnay from some producer that doesn't make a full-on oxidised style.
Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Ch. des Jacques Clos de la Roche 2000 was a lovely wine but more Burgundian and marked by oak than what I perhaps expect from Bojo. But the oak had integrated well and it was a huge pleasure to drink.
Judging by the evaporation rate, however, I think it was the Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 2007 that I most fell in love with. It was everything that is good about natural wines: lively, pure and dangerously drinkable.
The Cos Pithos 2007 had much the same attributes as the Foillard except it has more sun and all that is associated with more sun. But since it retained the extraordinary liveliness, I didn't mind the sweetness and bigness at all.
Chateau Bernadotte, Haut Medoc 1996 was unspoofulated, classic Claret. And that is always lovely. I thought it was drinking beautifully now. Drink and hold.
I loved the food at Terroirs, and the wine list had only one or two wines that I wouldn't care to drink! Many, if not most, wines at Terroirs are from Les Caves de Pyrene - a truly wonderful company that imports almost solely endlessly fascinating wines. So I was very happy that Richard Shama at this off-line managed to get me a ticket to CdP's trade tasting the next day!
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