Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2007
15,98€; 14,5% abv; 6,4 g/l acidity; screwed.
Purple. Mulberry, sweet dark fruit and oak - the alcohol is a little apparent. It seems to come from a much hotter climate than I remembered Clare Valley to have been. The fruit is very ripe and has a bit of a dried character, it is very full bodied and rich. The tannins and acidity do support the fruit well, but it does seem rather like a Barossa Shiraz because of its sheer ripeness (or do I misremember that the Clare Valley was a relatively cooler place?). Despite all these hot climate warnings and the apparent alcohol on the nose, the aftertaste isn't hot. Anyway, for Finland this is good value if one likes a bruiser style. (I don't, so this was more an academic exercise to me...)
sunnuntai 30. toukokuuta 2010
torstai 27. toukokuuta 2010
Quinta do Côtto Douro Grande Escolha 1995
Quinta do Côtto Douro Grande Escolha 1995 - Douro, 30€
12,5% abv; Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz & Sousão. Quite a lovely wine. It has a leathery aged elegance with cigar box and earth aromas; but it also has a sweet, red berry presence which coupled with a still good structure would suggest that there is no hurry to drink this despite some aged aromas. Deep and crunchy palate with lovely, sweet fruit and refreshing acidity and still noticeable tannins. I love it now for its mix of youthful vigor and its complex, aged aromas. Drink and hold.
12,5% abv; Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz & Sousão. Quite a lovely wine. It has a leathery aged elegance with cigar box and earth aromas; but it also has a sweet, red berry presence which coupled with a still good structure would suggest that there is no hurry to drink this despite some aged aromas. Deep and crunchy palate with lovely, sweet fruit and refreshing acidity and still noticeable tannins. I love it now for its mix of youthful vigor and its complex, aged aromas. Drink and hold.
keskiviikko 26. toukokuuta 2010
Jean-Marc Burgaud Rosez!
With the lovely typical Finnish summer having arrived (rain and temperatures of 14° C) it was the obvious weather for a light rosé!
Jean-Marc Burgaud Rosez! - Beaujolais-Village Rosé; 13,85€; 12% abv
No vintage on the label but is 2009. Gamay. Very pale pink. Lovely scent of minerals with a delicate whiff of strawberry - not a sweet scent but pure. Deliciously light, pure and mineral. Nervy. Not cheap for rosé but it makes up for that by its sheer awesomeness.
Jean-Marc Burgaud Rosez! - Beaujolais-Village Rosé; 13,85€; 12% abv
No vintage on the label but is 2009. Gamay. Very pale pink. Lovely scent of minerals with a delicate whiff of strawberry - not a sweet scent but pure. Deliciously light, pure and mineral. Nervy. Not cheap for rosé but it makes up for that by its sheer awesomeness.
sunnuntai 23. toukokuuta 2010
A Canonic Pesquera 1995
I like Canons in polyphonic music. I dislike cannons as a mechanism of warfare because of my anti-violent/pacific beliefs. And I think, but am not sure, that I dislike the idea of canonical works whether they be in the arts or in wines.
The Pesquera Tinto 1995 from Ribera seems to fall into all these can(n)onical groups. From the beginning of the bottle to the end some two hours later, it hadn't really morphed into anything: it was always singing the same tune as a round.
It was also heavy, explosively aromatic and smoky. A violent wine, it felt like a midget were in my mouth beating me up with a baseball bat made from new American oak.
And it belongs to the canon of so called great wines that one civilized in wine should have experience of. But until now, I hadn't tried one. Despite the danger of being seen as uncivilized, just like I admit that I hope I had never bothered reading the Brontës, I am now hoping I would not have experienced this wine.
Despite some nice, aged Tempranillo aromas, this is massively coconutty and oaky and a harsh oak bitterness also shows on the palate. I had thought that 15 years would be enough to tame that, but it would seem to need a century more. And with how aged the fruit seems, I don't think it will quite make it.
The Pesquera Tinto 1995 from Ribera seems to fall into all these can(n)onical groups. From the beginning of the bottle to the end some two hours later, it hadn't really morphed into anything: it was always singing the same tune as a round.
It was also heavy, explosively aromatic and smoky. A violent wine, it felt like a midget were in my mouth beating me up with a baseball bat made from new American oak.
And it belongs to the canon of so called great wines that one civilized in wine should have experience of. But until now, I hadn't tried one. Despite the danger of being seen as uncivilized, just like I admit that I hope I had never bothered reading the Brontës, I am now hoping I would not have experienced this wine.
Despite some nice, aged Tempranillo aromas, this is massively coconutty and oaky and a harsh oak bitterness also shows on the palate. I had thought that 15 years would be enough to tame that, but it would seem to need a century more. And with how aged the fruit seems, I don't think it will quite make it.
lauantai 22. toukokuuta 2010
Studies in Dumbness
I tend to prefer my Rieslings with some sweetness - though essentially anti-Platonic in my views (if that doesn't sound too oxymoronic), I find the ideal of Riesling in the sugary, steely Saar&Ruwer and in similar low alcohol, sugary styles from elsewhere in Germany. Yet, oddly enough, in Alsace and Austria I find the bone dry style my ideal. I hope someone will someday give me a reason why I love sugar in Germany and love austere dryness elsewhere; I haven't so far been able to put into words my seemingly contradictory preferences.
Domaine Joseph Scharsch Riesling Altenberg de Wolxheim 2007 - Alsace; label
24,30€; 13% abv; 7 g/l rs; 7,3 g/l acidity. As I have come to expect from this producer, this is a delightful wine at a moderate price (for Finland, anyway). The nose is a bit quiet and is not very expressive, but it has lovely floral and citric aromas, very mineral. The palate has lovely intensity, grip and purity of fruit. It is dry and steely, yet despite being young it isn't austere. Though in a slightly inexpressive stage, I think this is a lovely, elegant, dry Alsace Riesling. Try again in a few years.
Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling 2004 - Rheingau, label
12,5% abv. Quite dumb and inexpressive just now. It smells of lime and minerals and pure Riesling fruit, but these typically loud aromas are now as quiet as Morton Feldman's late compositions. Dry and grippy and a little too much on the austerely charmless side for my liking. Yet everything about this seems to show promise: I very much want to try this some years on from now.
We were dumb enough to open these now, though it wasn't a great surprise that they were dumb. But even academic exercises can be fun.
Domaine Joseph Scharsch Riesling Altenberg de Wolxheim 2007 - Alsace; label
24,30€; 13% abv; 7 g/l rs; 7,3 g/l acidity. As I have come to expect from this producer, this is a delightful wine at a moderate price (for Finland, anyway). The nose is a bit quiet and is not very expressive, but it has lovely floral and citric aromas, very mineral. The palate has lovely intensity, grip and purity of fruit. It is dry and steely, yet despite being young it isn't austere. Though in a slightly inexpressive stage, I think this is a lovely, elegant, dry Alsace Riesling. Try again in a few years.
Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling 2004 - Rheingau, label
12,5% abv. Quite dumb and inexpressive just now. It smells of lime and minerals and pure Riesling fruit, but these typically loud aromas are now as quiet as Morton Feldman's late compositions. Dry and grippy and a little too much on the austerely charmless side for my liking. Yet everything about this seems to show promise: I very much want to try this some years on from now.
We were dumb enough to open these now, though it wasn't a great surprise that they were dumb. But even academic exercises can be fun.
perjantai 21. toukokuuta 2010
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Auselese 1989
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Auselese 1989 - Pfalz; 10,5% abv; 25€
To compare with the somewhat Riesling-like Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 1996 we decided to open a mature Riesling, too. Scarily orange colour. But the wine was fine. Aged aromas of singed copper kettle, but with a pure, citric Riesling aroma overriding everything else. Off-dry, quite full bodied, lively. A little strange in how frighteningly old it looked, how wonderfully mature it smelled and how bracingly young it tasted. But the whole was pure joy.
torstai 20. toukokuuta 2010
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 1996
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 1996 - Vin de Pays de l'HéraultA weird blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Chenin and Petit Manseng each about 20% with the remaining 20% from "rare grape varieties from all over the world," as their web site states (anyone know what these rare grapes are?). Refreshingly low alcohol of 12%.
Deep, very mature colour. The scent has lovely, honeyed sweetness and much floral fireworks, but all in a very refreshing way rather than the cloying way that I often find Viognier. Nicely mellowed with age, but lively and faintly sweet. Persistent. Though completely different from Riesling in its fruit profile, this still strikes me as essentially made up of the same proportions as mature Riesling: aromatic, sweet fruit, lively and refreshing, honeyed. I thought it was rather lovely.
tiistai 18. toukokuuta 2010
OriginAle Darwinian IPA
Bryggeriet Djævlebryg OriginAle Darwinian IPA Intelligent Designende Øl - Denmark; 8,5% abv; 61 EBU; First Gold, Challenger and Fuggles hops
This was brewed in 2009 to honour Darwin's 200th birthday and the 150th anniversary of the publication of On the Origin of Species. It is a "mutated double IPA designed with three English hops to pay tribute to his descent".
Dense head. Lovely woody hops, some fruitiness and sweetness from the malts, but this isn't at all like the US IPAs with their aggressive and sweet style. Fairly low carbonation, deliciously bitter and hoppy which nicely counteracts the sweetness, I like it very much despite a bit of alcohol showing on the finish.
This was brewed in 2009 to honour Darwin's 200th birthday and the 150th anniversary of the publication of On the Origin of Species. It is a "mutated double IPA designed with three English hops to pay tribute to his descent".
Dense head. Lovely woody hops, some fruitiness and sweetness from the malts, but this isn't at all like the US IPAs with their aggressive and sweet style. Fairly low carbonation, deliciously bitter and hoppy which nicely counteracts the sweetness, I like it very much despite a bit of alcohol showing on the finish.
sunnuntai 16. toukokuuta 2010
Two Rheinhessen Trocken Rieslings 2008
Today I tried two Rieslings from a "cult" producer whom I hadn't heard of before. Amazingly I liked them, though I prefer the style with RS in it. The Battenfeld-Spanier was a truly lovely wine and was the first German Riesling trocken that I have fallen in love with. I must try to find a bottle to drink with dinner to see if my infatuation lasts.
Spanier-Gillot Riesling Kalkglimmer 2008 - Rheinhessen
12% abv; c.16€; under screw cap. More obvious than the lovely Battenfeld-Spanier, but a very enjoyable wine. Also very mineral, but despite the lower alcohol, it seems to have riper fruit aromas. Crisp, dry palate but just like the Battenfeld-Spanier this isn't the charmless trocken style I usually see, but is very lovable. But this isn't as ethereal and pure as the B-S. But it is cheaper! A very nice wine.
Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Mölsheim Riesling Riesling "S" 2008 - Rheinhessen
13% abv; c.20€. For the first time in my experience, I get the aromatic complexity of the sweeter styles of German Riesling in a dry wine. And also for the first time in my experience, I love a Trocken and don't have to make excuses for a lack of RS. Elegant lime aromas, much rocks. Full bodied but not powerful like Alsace instead it is delicate and floral and very charming like the non-trockener styles in Germany at best are. Long and stony finish. Lovely wine.
Spanier-Gillot Riesling Kalkglimmer 2008 - Rheinhessen
12% abv; c.16€; under screw cap. More obvious than the lovely Battenfeld-Spanier, but a very enjoyable wine. Also very mineral, but despite the lower alcohol, it seems to have riper fruit aromas. Crisp, dry palate but just like the Battenfeld-Spanier this isn't the charmless trocken style I usually see, but is very lovable. But this isn't as ethereal and pure as the B-S. But it is cheaper! A very nice wine.
Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Mölsheim Riesling Riesling "S" 2008 - Rheinhessen
13% abv; c.20€. For the first time in my experience, I get the aromatic complexity of the sweeter styles of German Riesling in a dry wine. And also for the first time in my experience, I love a Trocken and don't have to make excuses for a lack of RS. Elegant lime aromas, much rocks. Full bodied but not powerful like Alsace instead it is delicate and floral and very charming like the non-trockener styles in Germany at best are. Long and stony finish. Lovely wine.
Quinta de Giesta 2008
Boas Quintas Dão Quinta de Giesta 2008 - Dão; 12,76€; 12,5% abv; Tinta Roriz 45%, Touriga Nacional 32%, Jaen 23%; no oak aging; label
Youthful, deep red, no purplosity. A rather lovely scent: berries, dark fruit, floral, sweet but savory. Gutsy, pleasantly high in palate-cleansing tannins, but not in the dried-out rustic way that some "old style" Portuguese are: this has a lovely purity of fruit. It's not a grand wine, but with a lasagna (lots of fat which is always good with such a structure of tannin and acid as this wine has) it was lovely. I think this will be a regular wine on my table.
Youthful, deep red, no purplosity. A rather lovely scent: berries, dark fruit, floral, sweet but savory. Gutsy, pleasantly high in palate-cleansing tannins, but not in the dried-out rustic way that some "old style" Portuguese are: this has a lovely purity of fruit. It's not a grand wine, but with a lasagna (lots of fat which is always good with such a structure of tannin and acid as this wine has) it was lovely. I think this will be a regular wine on my table.
torstai 13. toukokuuta 2010
Love for a grape I hate
I generally get along very, very badly with Sauvignon Blanc, even, surprisingly, the Loire ones. But on occasion I come across one that is very satisfying.
Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Steirische Klassik 2009 - Gamlitz, Südsteiermark, Austria
12,5% abv; c.16€; glass stopper. This is Sattlerhof's basic SB, he also has a Sernauberg and Kranachberg single vineyard SBs that I once tried in a big tasting and would frankly like to try at home, too, if they ever become available here. But even this basic one is pretty special.
Colorless. Strongly mineral aroma, very pure and much more elegant than my memories of the '07 and '08 are (I thought they were rather on the heavy end of the spectrum). Not a fireworks like the stereotypical Kiwi SB, but it is still a fruity style of SB though gladly not tropically fruity. Wonderful grip on the palate so it is invigorating despite the fruit. Quite a lovely drop!
Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Steirische Klassik 2009 - Gamlitz, Südsteiermark, Austria
12,5% abv; c.16€; glass stopper. This is Sattlerhof's basic SB, he also has a Sernauberg and Kranachberg single vineyard SBs that I once tried in a big tasting and would frankly like to try at home, too, if they ever become available here. But even this basic one is pretty special.
Colorless. Strongly mineral aroma, very pure and much more elegant than my memories of the '07 and '08 are (I thought they were rather on the heavy end of the spectrum). Not a fireworks like the stereotypical Kiwi SB, but it is still a fruity style of SB though gladly not tropically fruity. Wonderful grip on the palate so it is invigorating despite the fruit. Quite a lovely drop!
maanantai 10. toukokuuta 2010
Quinta da Romeira Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2007
Companhia das Quintas (Quinta da Romeira) Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2007
17,77€; Companhia das Quintas consists of seven properties around Portugal; the one from Bucelas is called Quinta da Romeira. 13,5% abv; 100% Arinto; 9 months in new French oak.
In the 1970s there was only one producer making wine in Bucelas. But it hasn't always been in such a sorry state. Shakespeare mentions it in Henry VI but uses the name Charneco (from the village of Charneca close to where the wines are grown); Wellington made it popular in England (as he did with Carcavelos), where it became known as Portuguese Hock because of its similarities to Riesling (though neither Arinto nor Esgana Cão is related). Though it doesn't seem to be a household name today, it's prospects are brighter as apparently the area under vine has increased and investments are being put in.
I was very excited to taste this wine. But unfortunately I was sorely disappointed. Despite some lovely citric aromas and pleasantly high acidity (both Arinto and the other grape grown, Esgana Cão, are known for their ability to retain high acidity in a hot climate) the overwhelming impression is of unpleasant, saw-dust oak. Toffee on the finish. Other than the good acidity, this seems like a stereotype of Californian Chardonnay. I really hope that this particular wine is just a freak - it would be a shame if revitalizing the region means making wine in a style that can be and is made everywhere.
17,77€; Companhia das Quintas consists of seven properties around Portugal; the one from Bucelas is called Quinta da Romeira. 13,5% abv; 100% Arinto; 9 months in new French oak.
In the 1970s there was only one producer making wine in Bucelas. But it hasn't always been in such a sorry state. Shakespeare mentions it in Henry VI but uses the name Charneco (from the village of Charneca close to where the wines are grown); Wellington made it popular in England (as he did with Carcavelos), where it became known as Portuguese Hock because of its similarities to Riesling (though neither Arinto nor Esgana Cão is related). Though it doesn't seem to be a household name today, it's prospects are brighter as apparently the area under vine has increased and investments are being put in.
I was very excited to taste this wine. But unfortunately I was sorely disappointed. Despite some lovely citric aromas and pleasantly high acidity (both Arinto and the other grape grown, Esgana Cão, are known for their ability to retain high acidity in a hot climate) the overwhelming impression is of unpleasant, saw-dust oak. Toffee on the finish. Other than the good acidity, this seems like a stereotype of Californian Chardonnay. I really hope that this particular wine is just a freak - it would be a shame if revitalizing the region means making wine in a style that can be and is made everywhere.
sunnuntai 9. toukokuuta 2010
Domaine Saint Pierre Vacqueyras 2006
Domaine Saint Pierre Vacqueyras 200617,48€; 14,5% abv; 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. Bordering on purplosity. Dark toned, masculine, rugged, meaty aroma but with all the sweetness and garrigue I expect from this area. Quite a powerful wine with pleasingly refreshing tannins countering the primary fruit. Thus, until the aftertaste, it seemed like a very good example of the masculine style of Vacqueyras, but sadly there was heat on the finish.
Loimer GV Terrassen 2007
Fred Loimer Langenlois Terrassen Grüner Veltliner 2007 - 13% abv; c.23€
I like it. The fruit is ripe and almost going toward the exotic end of the spectrum, though I thought '07 wasn't a hot year, but the ripeness doesn't go to such a level that it would bother me. Lovely wet rock aromas. On the palate the ripeness is again fairly high, so this is a rich wine but it is incredibly racy, electric and mineral as well. Lovely wine.
I like it. The fruit is ripe and almost going toward the exotic end of the spectrum, though I thought '07 wasn't a hot year, but the ripeness doesn't go to such a level that it would bother me. Lovely wet rock aromas. On the palate the ripeness is again fairly high, so this is a rich wine but it is incredibly racy, electric and mineral as well. Lovely wine.
torstai 6. toukokuuta 2010
RIP Giulietta Simionato
Sad, though not unexpected, news for us opera fans here. On May 12th she would have turned 100. But she died tonight. Mezzo-sopranos always seem to be overshadowed by sopranos, but Simionato was one of the few who was a superstar despite having a vocal range not that of the regular superstar.
See here for some '50s-'60s clips of her.
See here for some '50s-'60s clips of her.
keskiviikko 5. toukokuuta 2010
Tbilvino Rkatsiteli 2008
Tbilvino Rkatsiteli 2008 - Georgia, Kakheti
8,98€; 12,5% abv; 100% Rkatsiteli. A fun little wine. It seems a bit leesy and has some crisp, appley aromas, too - it seems a little like Muscadet except without such strong minerality. Though the grape is known for its high and even harsh acidity, this example didn't seem terribly high in acid; but it is sufficiently crisp to balance the ripe fruit. It is a very pleasant drop, but it does seem a little bit easy and commercial. I was expecting and wishing for a more unique profile of this grape.
maanantai 3. toukokuuta 2010
A study in contrasts with two Bordeaux-blends
Four of us met for some rare beef. The other three are even more new to wine than I am, so they asked for a theme: one old world and one new world that would show some general differences between the styles. This is, of course, an impossible task, but I hope I managed to portray some contrasting styles with my choices:
Château Gressier Grand Poujeaux 2005 - Moulis-en-Médoc; 50/50 CS & Merlot; 13% abv; 21,70€
When I have grown more and more bored with Boredaux, this wine, in both '05 and '06, has been one that has kept up my faith in the area. Classic aromas of loam and blackcurrant leaf, much ripeness as expected from the vintage, but nothing over the top. Good tannins, savoury, refreshing finish. Really very enjoyable and well received by the others as well.
I have never understood why the lashings of toasty new oak are supposed to appeal to those of us who drink wine relatively early. I find the tannins of traditional Bordeaux much more easy to handle than the sickeningly sweet toffeed sensations of the so-called early-drinking Bordeaux.
A. & I. Baron von Essen Capaia 2007 - Wine of Origin Philadelphia, South Africa; 14% abv; CS 37%, Merlot 26%, CF 19%, PV 18%; 25,90€
This is an area of SA that I hadn't heard of before. Apparently it is a relatively cool climate due to the Atlantic influence.
But it doesn't really seem like a cool climate wine: rich, voluptuous, open and expressive aromatics, with a bit of the baked bean and loam character I so often find with these blends. Much oak, but it isn't the annoying, sweet, toffee scent, but a more savoury, coffee bean type. Very rich and sweet, bordering on jammy. A huge hit around the table. I won't be buying any of this, but I thought it was a very well made example of the bigger style.
Château Gressier Grand Poujeaux 2005 - Moulis-en-Médoc; 50/50 CS & Merlot; 13% abv; 21,70€
When I have grown more and more bored with Boredaux, this wine, in both '05 and '06, has been one that has kept up my faith in the area. Classic aromas of loam and blackcurrant leaf, much ripeness as expected from the vintage, but nothing over the top. Good tannins, savoury, refreshing finish. Really very enjoyable and well received by the others as well.
I have never understood why the lashings of toasty new oak are supposed to appeal to those of us who drink wine relatively early. I find the tannins of traditional Bordeaux much more easy to handle than the sickeningly sweet toffeed sensations of the so-called early-drinking Bordeaux.
A. & I. Baron von Essen Capaia 2007 - Wine of Origin Philadelphia, South Africa; 14% abv; CS 37%, Merlot 26%, CF 19%, PV 18%; 25,90€This is an area of SA that I hadn't heard of before. Apparently it is a relatively cool climate due to the Atlantic influence.
But it doesn't really seem like a cool climate wine: rich, voluptuous, open and expressive aromatics, with a bit of the baked bean and loam character I so often find with these blends. Much oak, but it isn't the annoying, sweet, toffee scent, but a more savoury, coffee bean type. Very rich and sweet, bordering on jammy. A huge hit around the table. I won't be buying any of this, but I thought it was a very well made example of the bigger style.
lauantai 1. toukokuuta 2010
Romance and Probability
Bunan Bandol Moulin des Costes 2001
Corked.
Čotar Teran 2006
And the romance of the cork strikes again.
So time for a glass stopped wine instead:
Gernot und Heike Heinrich Blaufränkisch 2008
From Gols, Neusiedlersee in Burgenland, Austria. I have previously tried Heinrich's St. Laurent and Zweigelt, so I was very happy to try this Blaufränkisch, too. Spicy, juicy dark fruit, peppery and gravelly. It seems like a juicier version of Éric Texier's Syrahs. Good body, friendly palate despite some nice grip to it. Invigorating, mineral finish. 13% abv and dangerously moreish.
Now I've tasted through the basic, varietal wines from Heinrich and I think they are fantastic. I do not dare to go to the "top" end of his wines yet, since all notes I see on them mention lots of oak. Or is some forumite going to persuade me otherwise?
With such a success after two corked wines, we hesitated slightly and then rationalized (hopefully correctly) our way into opening a white wine under cork: drawing from a random batch of wines, the probability of it being corked is the same even with a couple corked ones already having been opened.
Thus moralized by impeccable logic and a shared bottle of wine we opened up a Can Ràfols dels Caus Gran Caus 2005, a strange, alliterative blend of Chardonnay, Xarel.lo and Chenin. And it's quite lovely. It seems a bit like LdH whites, except not so oxidative in style. It smells a bit like it was under flor yet afaik it wasn't. It smells of tart white flowers (elderflower?). Crisp and very dry yet rich. Nice stuff!
Corked.
Čotar Teran 2006
And the romance of the cork strikes again.
So time for a glass stopped wine instead:
Gernot und Heike Heinrich Blaufränkisch 2008
From Gols, Neusiedlersee in Burgenland, Austria. I have previously tried Heinrich's St. Laurent and Zweigelt, so I was very happy to try this Blaufränkisch, too. Spicy, juicy dark fruit, peppery and gravelly. It seems like a juicier version of Éric Texier's Syrahs. Good body, friendly palate despite some nice grip to it. Invigorating, mineral finish. 13% abv and dangerously moreish.
Now I've tasted through the basic, varietal wines from Heinrich and I think they are fantastic. I do not dare to go to the "top" end of his wines yet, since all notes I see on them mention lots of oak. Or is some forumite going to persuade me otherwise?
With such a success after two corked wines, we hesitated slightly and then rationalized (hopefully correctly) our way into opening a white wine under cork: drawing from a random batch of wines, the probability of it being corked is the same even with a couple corked ones already having been opened.
Thus moralized by impeccable logic and a shared bottle of wine we opened up a Can Ràfols dels Caus Gran Caus 2005, a strange, alliterative blend of Chardonnay, Xarel.lo and Chenin. And it's quite lovely. It seems a bit like LdH whites, except not so oxidative in style. It smells a bit like it was under flor yet afaik it wasn't. It smells of tart white flowers (elderflower?). Crisp and very dry yet rich. Nice stuff!
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