HaandBryggeriet London Porter - 4,5% abv; 6,80€ / 0,5 l.
This seems to have a strong dose of chocolate malts since it smells like good quality dark chocolate: deliciously bitter. Dry, good body for such a low alcohol beer, refreshing finish, persistent, nicely bitter and hoppy finish. Really lovely light porter - a shame it's so expensive.
perjantai 29. huhtikuuta 2011
torstai 28. huhtikuuta 2011
Sociando-Mallet 2007
As some of you might have noticed, I have grown quite disillusioned with Bordeaux in recent years. I don't buy them anymore (except for a couple producers if I see them...), but today I got to try Sociando-Mallet 2007. I haven't been paying much attention to Bordeaux talk, but IIRC this vintage wasn't received very favourably.
Maybe I will resurrect my interest in this area by drinking the produce of these lesser years. The oak is more forward than I would prefer, but it doesn't overpower the other aromas, so perhaps that is forgiveable in such a young wine. Good body and a wonderfully classical 12,5% abv, refreshing, crisp palate and finish. Moreish. The oak isn't noticeable on the palate. Good stuff and more classically styled than most other Bordeaux I have recently had.
But, and there just has to be a "but" with Bordeaux, the price! Oh my goodness, the price! Just under 50€ / bottle in Finland. And that is the outrageous thing about this wine.
Maybe I will resurrect my interest in this area by drinking the produce of these lesser years. The oak is more forward than I would prefer, but it doesn't overpower the other aromas, so perhaps that is forgiveable in such a young wine. Good body and a wonderfully classical 12,5% abv, refreshing, crisp palate and finish. Moreish. The oak isn't noticeable on the palate. Good stuff and more classically styled than most other Bordeaux I have recently had.
But, and there just has to be a "but" with Bordeaux, the price! Oh my goodness, the price! Just under 50€ / bottle in Finland. And that is the outrageous thing about this wine.
tiistai 26. huhtikuuta 2011
A jaundiced, little, round thing... and a blood clot
Meloni Cannonau di Sardegna 2007
A cheap wine, but a good one, just 10,05€. I liked this on first taste and now wanted to try it again. Really lovely ripe but herbaceous aromas, a little bit meaty and spicy (not oak-spice). Good body, not too rich, certainly not thin; refreshing finish. This seems like a "real" wine - how on earth did Alko accept this into it's selection? And at such a cheap price? Miracles do happen...
(d.) de blanes Le Clot 2009 Vin de Pays d'Oc, 100% Syrah
Another wine I loved on first taste; and another I love now when re-trying. Pure, dark fruit, meaty - though ripe and rich, it is very much more Syrah in style than Shiraz - like game bird's blood. Rich, more so than I remembered from my last taste, but still with good structure. Perhaps a touch reductive (which I didn't notice on my last taste). Wonderfully refreshing finish. Racy.
A cheap wine, but a good one, just 10,05€. I liked this on first taste and now wanted to try it again. Really lovely ripe but herbaceous aromas, a little bit meaty and spicy (not oak-spice). Good body, not too rich, certainly not thin; refreshing finish. This seems like a "real" wine - how on earth did Alko accept this into it's selection? And at such a cheap price? Miracles do happen...
(d.) de blanes Le Clot 2009 Vin de Pays d'Oc, 100% Syrah
Another wine I loved on first taste; and another I love now when re-trying. Pure, dark fruit, meaty - though ripe and rich, it is very much more Syrah in style than Shiraz - like game bird's blood. Rich, more so than I remembered from my last taste, but still with good structure. Perhaps a touch reductive (which I didn't notice on my last taste). Wonderfully refreshing finish. Racy.
perjantai 22. huhtikuuta 2011
J-M Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2009
J-M Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2009
I haven't been entirely convinced about the sheer ripeness of the 2009s in Beaujolais (for me, the 2007s I have tried have had the ideal balance of sheer fun married to good structure), but for Burgaud it seems to have worked. I recently posted on their "luxury" cuvée, James, which I was very positively surprised by.
This "basic" Côte du Py is also wonderful in having the typically hard, gravelly structure of Burgaud yet such fruit as to be approachable already (though I am sure it will only get better with age).
Unlike most Burgauds at this stage this 2009 is already wonderfully perfumed: dark fruit, very mineral and gravelly. Full body, tannic, palate-cleansing and refreshing despite all the fruit. Bracing.
It's a good wine, and the vintage character seems to suit this producer particularly well.
I haven't been entirely convinced about the sheer ripeness of the 2009s in Beaujolais (for me, the 2007s I have tried have had the ideal balance of sheer fun married to good structure), but for Burgaud it seems to have worked. I recently posted on their "luxury" cuvée, James, which I was very positively surprised by.
This "basic" Côte du Py is also wonderful in having the typically hard, gravelly structure of Burgaud yet such fruit as to be approachable already (though I am sure it will only get better with age).
Unlike most Burgauds at this stage this 2009 is already wonderfully perfumed: dark fruit, very mineral and gravelly. Full body, tannic, palate-cleansing and refreshing despite all the fruit. Bracing.
It's a good wine, and the vintage character seems to suit this producer particularly well.
torstai 21. huhtikuuta 2011
Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2006
Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2006 - Tasmania, Yarra Valley and Tumbarumba; 13% abv; 29€
According to the back label these are all cool climates, and the relatively low abv and the bright, citric character would indeed suggest that this is the case. The sheer weight would suggest otherwise. But perhaps the harsh, bitter oaking has provided an illusion of extreme weight that wouldn't otherwise be so manifest. I thought the trend in over-oaking should have been over? Why spoil such good material?
According to the back label these are all cool climates, and the relatively low abv and the bright, citric character would indeed suggest that this is the case. The sheer weight would suggest otherwise. But perhaps the harsh, bitter oaking has provided an illusion of extreme weight that wouldn't otherwise be so manifest. I thought the trend in over-oaking should have been over? Why spoil such good material?
keskiviikko 20. huhtikuuta 2011
Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus
Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru NV - Non-dosé; 100% Chardonnay from Les Barillers and Les Faucherets in Vertus; too expensive at 50€
Expensive, perhaps, but awesome. I haven't had enough Champagne recently so I don't anymore have a proper reference frame to put this in, but it seemed to me to be a delightfully bready and steely and mineral fizz; crisp and pure but not unfriendly. Just the sort of elegance I like in my fizz! It's a pity that Champagne prices have risen so much here that I can't really justify drinking them.
I forgot to check what vintages this officially NV wine really is (sorry!).
Expensive, perhaps, but awesome. I haven't had enough Champagne recently so I don't anymore have a proper reference frame to put this in, but it seemed to me to be a delightfully bready and steely and mineral fizz; crisp and pure but not unfriendly. Just the sort of elegance I like in my fizz! It's a pity that Champagne prices have risen so much here that I can't really justify drinking them.
I forgot to check what vintages this officially NV wine really is (sorry!).
tiistai 19. huhtikuuta 2011
Wynns "Michael" 2003
I was recently given a bottle of Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz Limited Release "Michael" 2003. I remember tasting some late '90s version of this wine ('98 maybe or '99 - I can't find my notes) that I didn't like at all - my memories of that was of blockbuster fruit and a general sense of massiveness and enough weight that it had the destructive gravitational pull of a neutron star.
But this 2003 was a pleasant surprise. It is very oaky, but the peppery and dark fruit are well in evidence and aren't obfuscated by the wood, so perhaps this will turn out well. But the surprise is the palate: it is dense, but not as dense as a neutron star this time, moderate in alcohol for an Ozzie Shiraz at "only" 13,5%, rich but it is also DRY! Pretty high acidity and tannins. Refreshing finish.
So, has Wynns in recent years gone back to making more elegant wine or was that over-sized late '90's an exception for them?
perjantai 15. huhtikuuta 2011
"Top" Austrian red blends
A few days ago I attended a very interesting tasting of the "top" red blends from Austria. Only brief notes will follow, because, sadly, the wines were made in a uniform style. Though I will inevitably sound a bit rude, the style can only be called modern, uniform, dull anonymity. (I hope I'll continue to get invites to these tastings, however, since they are usually very interesting - but I must be honest!)
We started with a blind fizz, however. Salon 1990 label was apparently a strange, slightly off bottle in being so strongly oxidative. But despite that, I found it very enjoyable: I don't mind bruised apple aromas. It was strongly red fruited and quite rich and round and un-crisp so I thought it was a Pinot-dominated Champagne.
Then we tried the reds, half-blind or single blind or whatever the currently favoured term is.
Feiler-Artinger "1006" 2000 - Cab Sauv & Merlot; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; label; c.30€
A loamy, dark fruit scent, lots of oak - but sadly, this was among the less oaky wines tonight. Juicy, good structure, full bodied. Very rich style, reminds me of "modern" Bordeaux.
Feiler-Artinger "Solitaire" 2003 - Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv, Zweigelt, Merlot; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.30€; label
Much oak, a touch of stink, again very much like a hot year "modern" Bordeaux in style: thick, rich, smooth. Turns more acidic and red fruited with air. Improved very much and the oak went more into the background with air.
Gernot & Heike Heinrich "Gabarinza" 2006 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Merlot; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c. 35€; label
A strong Barrique aroma; strong, rich, full bodied, dark fruit. Good acid. But apart from the lovely levels of acidity, I didn't find much interest here.
Iby "Quintus Eva" 2006 - Blaufränkisch & Zweigelt; Horitschon, Mittelburgenland; c.30+€; label
This was one of the better wines this evening, since despite the oaky and rich style it also had a lovely perfume of peach. The fruit, also, seemed brighter and more fresh than in the other, dark wines. It was still rich and oaky, however. Decent structure. Though this was one of my favourites in the tasting, I still wouldn't buy it for myself.
Juris "Ina'Mera" 2001 - Cab Suave, Merlot, Blaufränkisch; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c.30€; label
At first smoky and so smooth and suave as to be anonymous; gets some peachy personality with air. Rich, dark fruit, sweet and ripe.
Juris "Wolfsjäger" 2004 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c.30€; label
Quite possibly the weirdest wine of the evening: a ringer for Chilean Cab IMO with cassis, jam and rhubarb sharpness. Dense, sweet and alcoholic. A fruit bomb.
Kollwentz "Steinzeiler" 2005 - Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv, Zweigelt; Gosshöflein, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.40€; label
Woody, glossy, international in style. Tight, too tannic and extracted, alcoholic. The finish was so fiery I thought I had drunk jalopeño juice.
Nittnaus "Comondor" 2001 - Merlot, Cab Sauv; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c. 35+€; label
Corked.
Pöckl "Rêve de Jeunesse" 2007 - Merlot, Zweigelt, Cab Sauv & Syrah; Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; c.40€; label
Dark and inky; very tannic and extracted, too powerful and drying to be enjoyable.
Pöckl "Admiral" 2007 - Zweigelt, Merlot, Cab Sauv; Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; c.35€; label
Very much like the previous except more milk chocolate/oak aromas and less extraction so this, I imagine, will be very pleasing for some palates. A well made but anonymous and international wine.
Schuster "CMB" 2006 - Cab Suave, Merlot, Blaufränkisch; St. Margarethen, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.30€; label
Another of my favourites because this was aromatic and peachy (though, yes, it was also suave, oaky and rich and dark). It became very perfumed, rather like an oolong tea, with air. Juicy but well structured. Decent stuff.
Ernst Triebaumer "Maulwurf" 2007 - Blaufränkisch, Merlot, Cab Sauv; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.20€; label
Perfectly anonymous, Barrique aromas, very reductive - as one taster said, it is like a Garagise St. Emilion. Very fruity, thick, but also tart. Unbalanced IMO.
Umathum "Heideboden" 2004 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv; Frauenkirchen, Neusiedlersee; c.20€
Another of my favourites tonight: sweet and dark and scorched, but at least this is aromatic and open and perfumed and, though not a wine in a style I appreciate, at least I can comprehend its charms. Sweet and soft, a bit soft, perhaps a touch hot on the finish; like an Ozzie Grenache.
Pöckl "Mystique" 2007 - Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch mostly with a bit of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Syrah probably mixed in - but Pöckl took the info with him into his grave (RIP) in January; the price is a silly c.200€ (yes, two zeros after the two); Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; label
Dark, dense, oaky, un-aromatic, un-charming; juicy fruit but woefully over-extracted and tannic. Nothing charming about this. This is great wine if you like wood - the taste and texture and hardness of it. In fact, wood seems a bit soft for this wine. Nails? Diamonds? Nanorods?
Gernot & Heike Heinrich "Salzberg" 2006 - Merlot 50%, Blaufränkisch 30% & Zweigelt 20%; c. 50+€; label
28 months in Barrique of which 70% was new, yet what is a scary is that this was among the less oaky wines of the evening. Sweet and concentrated, liqueur-like; thick, sweet and ripe, good structure, though. Finishes fresh.
Gerhard Just "Rust" TBA 2004 - Welschriesling; Rust; c.16€; label
Fresh and citric despite the botrytis; good acid, rich and super-sweet but fresh. IIRC this has something like 230g/l RS, yet after these reds, this was a very refreshing drop.
After the tasting, a few of us went and shared a bottle of Clouet Champagne Millesimé 1995 which was a really nice, refreshing drop: quite a bready, red toned, floral nose, seems to me to have quite a bit of Pinot (though with my guess with the Salon, don't trust me!). Crisp, elegant, low dosage(?). Nice stuff.
We started with a blind fizz, however. Salon 1990 label was apparently a strange, slightly off bottle in being so strongly oxidative. But despite that, I found it very enjoyable: I don't mind bruised apple aromas. It was strongly red fruited and quite rich and round and un-crisp so I thought it was a Pinot-dominated Champagne.
Then we tried the reds, half-blind or single blind or whatever the currently favoured term is.
Feiler-Artinger "1006" 2000 - Cab Sauv & Merlot; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; label; c.30€
A loamy, dark fruit scent, lots of oak - but sadly, this was among the less oaky wines tonight. Juicy, good structure, full bodied. Very rich style, reminds me of "modern" Bordeaux.
Feiler-Artinger "Solitaire" 2003 - Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv, Zweigelt, Merlot; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.30€; label
Much oak, a touch of stink, again very much like a hot year "modern" Bordeaux in style: thick, rich, smooth. Turns more acidic and red fruited with air. Improved very much and the oak went more into the background with air.
Gernot & Heike Heinrich "Gabarinza" 2006 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Merlot; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c. 35€; label
A strong Barrique aroma; strong, rich, full bodied, dark fruit. Good acid. But apart from the lovely levels of acidity, I didn't find much interest here.
Iby "Quintus Eva" 2006 - Blaufränkisch & Zweigelt; Horitschon, Mittelburgenland; c.30+€; label
This was one of the better wines this evening, since despite the oaky and rich style it also had a lovely perfume of peach. The fruit, also, seemed brighter and more fresh than in the other, dark wines. It was still rich and oaky, however. Decent structure. Though this was one of my favourites in the tasting, I still wouldn't buy it for myself.
Juris "Ina'Mera" 2001 - Cab Suave, Merlot, Blaufränkisch; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c.30€; label
At first smoky and so smooth and suave as to be anonymous; gets some peachy personality with air. Rich, dark fruit, sweet and ripe.
Juris "Wolfsjäger" 2004 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c.30€; label
Quite possibly the weirdest wine of the evening: a ringer for Chilean Cab IMO with cassis, jam and rhubarb sharpness. Dense, sweet and alcoholic. A fruit bomb.
Kollwentz "Steinzeiler" 2005 - Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv, Zweigelt; Gosshöflein, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.40€; label
Woody, glossy, international in style. Tight, too tannic and extracted, alcoholic. The finish was so fiery I thought I had drunk jalopeño juice.
Nittnaus "Comondor" 2001 - Merlot, Cab Sauv; Gols, Neusiedlersee; c. 35+€; label
Corked.
Pöckl "Rêve de Jeunesse" 2007 - Merlot, Zweigelt, Cab Sauv & Syrah; Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; c.40€; label
Dark and inky; very tannic and extracted, too powerful and drying to be enjoyable.
Pöckl "Admiral" 2007 - Zweigelt, Merlot, Cab Sauv; Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; c.35€; label
Very much like the previous except more milk chocolate/oak aromas and less extraction so this, I imagine, will be very pleasing for some palates. A well made but anonymous and international wine.
Schuster "CMB" 2006 - Cab Suave, Merlot, Blaufränkisch; St. Margarethen, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.30€; label
Another of my favourites because this was aromatic and peachy (though, yes, it was also suave, oaky and rich and dark). It became very perfumed, rather like an oolong tea, with air. Juicy but well structured. Decent stuff.
Ernst Triebaumer "Maulwurf" 2007 - Blaufränkisch, Merlot, Cab Sauv; Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland; c.20€; label
Perfectly anonymous, Barrique aromas, very reductive - as one taster said, it is like a Garagise St. Emilion. Very fruity, thick, but also tart. Unbalanced IMO.
Umathum "Heideboden" 2004 - Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Cab Sauv; Frauenkirchen, Neusiedlersee; c.20€
Another of my favourites tonight: sweet and dark and scorched, but at least this is aromatic and open and perfumed and, though not a wine in a style I appreciate, at least I can comprehend its charms. Sweet and soft, a bit soft, perhaps a touch hot on the finish; like an Ozzie Grenache.
Pöckl "Mystique" 2007 - Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch mostly with a bit of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Syrah probably mixed in - but Pöckl took the info with him into his grave (RIP) in January; the price is a silly c.200€ (yes, two zeros after the two); Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee; label
Dark, dense, oaky, un-aromatic, un-charming; juicy fruit but woefully over-extracted and tannic. Nothing charming about this. This is great wine if you like wood - the taste and texture and hardness of it. In fact, wood seems a bit soft for this wine. Nails? Diamonds? Nanorods?
Gernot & Heike Heinrich "Salzberg" 2006 - Merlot 50%, Blaufränkisch 30% & Zweigelt 20%; c. 50+€; label
28 months in Barrique of which 70% was new, yet what is a scary is that this was among the less oaky wines of the evening. Sweet and concentrated, liqueur-like; thick, sweet and ripe, good structure, though. Finishes fresh.
Gerhard Just "Rust" TBA 2004 - Welschriesling; Rust; c.16€; label
Fresh and citric despite the botrytis; good acid, rich and super-sweet but fresh. IIRC this has something like 230g/l RS, yet after these reds, this was a very refreshing drop.
After the tasting, a few of us went and shared a bottle of Clouet Champagne Millesimé 1995 which was a really nice, refreshing drop: quite a bready, red toned, floral nose, seems to me to have quite a bit of Pinot (though with my guess with the Salon, don't trust me!). Crisp, elegant, low dosage(?). Nice stuff.
keskiviikko 13. huhtikuuta 2011
Southern Tier Crème Brûlée Stout
Southern Tier Imperial Crème Brûlée Stout - 10% abv; New York, USA
This must be one of the strangest beers I have ever had. It smells just like vanilla and coffee and cream. There is nothing beer-like in the scent. The palate is very rich and sweet and creamy yet hops kick in on the finish and it ends up dry and pleasantly astringent. This comes in a pint sized bottle which is just right when three people share it, but I did not feel like I wanted any more than a third. I really don't know if I like it or not. But it certainly is intriguing since I've never tried anything like it!
This must be one of the strangest beers I have ever had. It smells just like vanilla and coffee and cream. There is nothing beer-like in the scent. The palate is very rich and sweet and creamy yet hops kick in on the finish and it ends up dry and pleasantly astringent. This comes in a pint sized bottle which is just right when three people share it, but I did not feel like I wanted any more than a third. I really don't know if I like it or not. But it certainly is intriguing since I've never tried anything like it!
Jean Bousquet Malbec Reserva 2009
Jean Bousquet Malbec Reserva 2009 from Tupungato Valley in Mendoza, Argentina. This is certified organic and comes from high vineyards, IIRC 1200m altitude. I didn't hear what sort of oak this sees, but I assume it's barrique and at least partly new because I sense it. Lots of dark fruit aromas, very meaty; sweet, very ripe, but with very nice, palate-cleansing tannins, moderate acidity, but very alcoholic on the finish (15%). Despite the alcohol there is a lightness and liveliness to this. But there isn't enough of these aspects for me to try this again. Good in its style (i.e. that of a big bruiser).
tiistai 12. huhtikuuta 2011
Trolling on Chileans
Loma Larga Quinteto 2006 - Chile, Acongacua
c.15€; 14,5% abv; Merlot 42%, Cab Franc 34%, Syrah 21%, Cab Sauv 2%, Malbec 1%. The Syrah and Merlot was aged in once and twice used French oak; the rest in stainless steel. The smell seems like a stereotypical Chilean wine made from any grape at all: sweet, jammy, dark fruit with a blackcurrant leaf and rhubarb sharpness. Rich, fruity, sweet and ripe, but with adequate acidity and tannin which give this a juicy and fresh rather than cloying finish. Also, I am happy that the oak is not obvious. But this is still rather ho-hum.
Forgive the coat and fangs, but why do so many Chileans, no matter what grapes go in the wine or where in Chile they are made, have such a similar flavor profile? Is some yeast used there that is particularly popular? There is only one producer that I have tried that doesn't conform to a stylistic stereotype, Clos Ouvert. Perhaps this reflects more the Finnish availability (oh, wait a minute, this might be too un-trolly to say) rather than acutal practices, but from my sampling I have found the country to be uniform and therefore dull. Anyone else than Clos Ouvert make interesting stuff there that sticks out from the masses?
c.15€; 14,5% abv; Merlot 42%, Cab Franc 34%, Syrah 21%, Cab Sauv 2%, Malbec 1%. The Syrah and Merlot was aged in once and twice used French oak; the rest in stainless steel. The smell seems like a stereotypical Chilean wine made from any grape at all: sweet, jammy, dark fruit with a blackcurrant leaf and rhubarb sharpness. Rich, fruity, sweet and ripe, but with adequate acidity and tannin which give this a juicy and fresh rather than cloying finish. Also, I am happy that the oak is not obvious. But this is still rather ho-hum.
Forgive the coat and fangs, but why do so many Chileans, no matter what grapes go in the wine or where in Chile they are made, have such a similar flavor profile? Is some yeast used there that is particularly popular? There is only one producer that I have tried that doesn't conform to a stylistic stereotype, Clos Ouvert. Perhaps this reflects more the Finnish availability (oh, wait a minute, this might be too un-trolly to say) rather than acutal practices, but from my sampling I have found the country to be uniform and therefore dull. Anyone else than Clos Ouvert make interesting stuff there that sticks out from the masses?
Big history
David Christian: Big history - a nice TED Talk about the history of the universe, all told in just 17 minutes!
perjantai 8. huhtikuuta 2011
An Exquisite Cheverny from Puzelat
Clos du Tue-Boeuf/Thierry Puzelat Cheverny "Rouillon" 2010 - Loire, North-East Touraine; 23€
Red Cheverny must be a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay (max 15% Côt or Cab Franc is allowed, but aren't used in this wine). Though I never thought of them as natural grapes to blend with each other, being so similar, the result - at least in this wine - is excellent. Quite simply, this is one of the most exquisite wines I have had in a long time.
Sappy and wonderfully pure aromas, clean, bright red fruit, slightly peppery, perhaps more strongly like a gravelly Gamay than Pinot at the moment. Ripe but crisp and racy, pleasantly structured with both good acidity and tannins, but neither of them overpowering. To me this shows an ideal balance between all the elements - more so than the very good 2009 I posted on previously since here the sweet fruit isn't as strongly represented. Clean, refreshing finish. So substantial despite its light raciness that I was very surprised to see it only has 11,5% abv.
Red Cheverny must be a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay (max 15% Côt or Cab Franc is allowed, but aren't used in this wine). Though I never thought of them as natural grapes to blend with each other, being so similar, the result - at least in this wine - is excellent. Quite simply, this is one of the most exquisite wines I have had in a long time.
Sappy and wonderfully pure aromas, clean, bright red fruit, slightly peppery, perhaps more strongly like a gravelly Gamay than Pinot at the moment. Ripe but crisp and racy, pleasantly structured with both good acidity and tannins, but neither of them overpowering. To me this shows an ideal balance between all the elements - more so than the very good 2009 I posted on previously since here the sweet fruit isn't as strongly represented. Clean, refreshing finish. So substantial despite its light raciness that I was very surprised to see it only has 11,5% abv.
torstai 7. huhtikuuta 2011
More "natural" wine
Still struggling with the term "natural," I came across a typically good blog post by Thor Iverson: Dispatches from Naturalia.
keskiviikko 6. huhtikuuta 2011
tiistai 5. huhtikuuta 2011
Verrocchio Amarone
Verrocchio Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
This is a new collaboration between a Nordic importer and several smaller producers. This was pretty fine stuff, though not the most hugely complex wine. Dark fruit, a bit reductive; sweet, soft entry but with a bit of bite toward the end. The 15% abv is not obvious. Decent.
This is a new collaboration between a Nordic importer and several smaller producers. This was pretty fine stuff, though not the most hugely complex wine. Dark fruit, a bit reductive; sweet, soft entry but with a bit of bite toward the end. The 15% abv is not obvious. Decent.
maanantai 4. huhtikuuta 2011
J-M Burgaud "James" 2009
J-M Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py "James" 2009 - James is the super-cuvée from Morgon, very expensive for Beaujolais at almost 30€, but it is also very good. Dark toned, dense, deep and serious. Deeply tannic, savoury, tangy. It's good stuff, but it doesn't seem terribly like any other Beaujolais I have had. Needs lots of age.
lauantai 2. huhtikuuta 2011
Tiefenbrunner
Tiefenbrunner from Alto-Adige is well known for making a Müller-Thurgau that is supposed to be awesome. I was sorry to hear that it wasn't one of the two of their wines that I got to try today.
Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Moscato Giallo 2009 was a clean, crisp wine with plenty of minerality. Though it smells sweet and floral and honeyed, there is a lovely savoury and citric twist to all the sweetness that keeps it from becoming cloying. Dry and rich but racy and refreshing. Nice!
Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 was also fairly nice. But about a third of the wine is aged in Barrique - and everyone here knows how I feel about obvious oak aromas, so no need to repeat that. But the toffee/vanilla is background noise that lets through a leafy, refreshing, pure Cabernet fruit. I don't sense the oak at all on the palate: ripe but refreshing fruit, crisp structure but it is still a friendly and inviting wine. Nice!
If their "basic" wines are of such quality, I really want to find that Müller-Thurgau of theirs!
Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Moscato Giallo 2009 was a clean, crisp wine with plenty of minerality. Though it smells sweet and floral and honeyed, there is a lovely savoury and citric twist to all the sweetness that keeps it from becoming cloying. Dry and rich but racy and refreshing. Nice!
Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 was also fairly nice. But about a third of the wine is aged in Barrique - and everyone here knows how I feel about obvious oak aromas, so no need to repeat that. But the toffee/vanilla is background noise that lets through a leafy, refreshing, pure Cabernet fruit. I don't sense the oak at all on the palate: ripe but refreshing fruit, crisp structure but it is still a friendly and inviting wine. Nice!
If their "basic" wines are of such quality, I really want to find that Müller-Thurgau of theirs!
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