After a discussion about this wine on the UK wine forum, I'm almost afraid to mention that I tried the LP Ultra Brut and liked it. But then my shyness evaporates because everyone already knows that I have bad taste in wines and like pure acidity.
I shared a bottle of this after work today. We had some Italian cured meats with it and I'm sure the fat did wonders to the acidity of the wine.
It was very mineral, quite bready and has much red apple aromas. Crisp and dry but not IMO painfully so; long and (dare I say it? yes I do!) elegant and pure (dons helmet to shield off the blows I'll receive). In fact from what I read in the thread, this seemed pretty tame and less electric than I expected - apparently only grapes from super-ripe vintages were used. I thought this was nice. Not 60€ nice, however, so I'll continue to buy the Pierre Péters at 10€ less. But if an almost universally ridiculed non-dosé is to my taste, it strengthens my resolve that I should try more of these. My limited sampling suggests that they really are to my taste. (Not only helmet, but full body armour now on, so let the beating begin!)