Domaine de la Bongran Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J. Thévenet 2005
Any producer that makes unique, instantly recognizable wines that are full of personality and are technically sound deserves credit. Bongran deserves much credit. This was a hugely interesting wine (and I don't mean interesting in a euphemistic way): very ripe and exotic fruit, spicy and honeyed (I know they make a botrytized cuvée as well, but I do wonder if this also had a touch of rot?) and with a very weird but attractive scent of something like ketchup! Very rich but with adequate acidity, very concentrated, very much a wine that needs the adverb "very" with every adjective. There's just one problem with the wine: it may be fascinating, it may be intriguing and thought-provoking, it may be tasty, but it is so concentrated that it is more like a dry dessert wine than a table wine and it lacks a bit of moreishness. I like moreishness. So I have mixed thoughts on this. One glass was enough for me.